I'm a little fuzzy regarding electrical systems, so please bear with me. I've got a 1967 Dart that still has the mechanical voltage regulator. I'd like to upgrade to an electronic version in preparation for electronic ignition in the future (and because I suspect the mechnical VR is on it's last leg). Frank Adkins Chrysler Performance Upgrades describes how to go about this conversion, but the instructions include upgrading to a later model alternator. Mopar Performance offers a constant voltage regulator specifically for pre-1969 cars (pn 3690732), and I'm wondering if using that would bypass the need for a newer alternator. What's the cheapest/easiest way to do the conversion?

VM

I use a solid-state volatage regulator that simply replaced the electro-mechanical original.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

That's your easiest and best bet, in my opinion. You can update to a higher amp, later style two field alternator by grounding one field and using the existing regulator wiring. I think SlantSixDan knows all of the relevant solid state conversion regulator part numbers off the top of his head...

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Most, if not all, drop-in exact fit replacement regulators are now electronic - it's cheaper than the electromechanical setups. I bought one for $10 or so from J.C.Whitney that worked fine.

Points-type regulators can still be had. NAPA Echlin VR32 or Standard-BlueStreak VR101 (stock replacement), Echlin VR34 or VR35, Standard-BlueStreak VR106 (heavy duty, with and without external voltage adjust screw). Probably others as well.

Transistorised and electronic ones are available, too. NAPA Echlin VR-1001, Standard-BlueStreak VR-128, or (with inconsistent-to-poor quality), Mopar Performance P3690732 -- all the same regulator:


If you use this one, you need to make sure to scrape off the powder coating around the bolt hole or it'll full-field the alternator and let the electrical smoke out of various parts of your car.

There's also the Wells VR-706, also electronic. It works, but I have a hard time trusting Wells' stuff.

Oh, and Vynn, the HEI conversion is better than using the Mopar module, allows bigger spark plug gaps, and eliminates the ballast resistor.

Thanks very much for the responses. I'm going to upgrade to the electronic version, and put off an alternator upgrade until later. Again, you guys saved me some $$$, and filled in some "gaps in my mechanical comprehension". Hope someday I can contribute half as much as I gain from this site!

VM

I wanted to add some updates I have found out while researching the Electronic Voltage Regulator, the type that are direct swap for the old mechanical type.

Wells VR706 from Autozone, lasted for 5 days then failed. $33 online via eBay pick up at Autozone. Weird.

AZ also can special order Duralast VR1130, for $61.

Napa vr1001, perpetually out of stock, for $81.

Standard Bluestreak VR128 , Rock has it $55

Oreilly has BWD R692 which no one talks about, but looks exactly like the VR128. $61 via special order.

There is also the one on eBay for $18, black.

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

My experience has not been good.



Garbage



Fine choice.



Fine choice, same make as Echlin VR-1001.



Probably same make as VR-1001.



I'll take "no-name parts you'll curse yourself for having bought, and it'll be on a dark, rainy Sunday night far from anywhere" for a thousand, Alex?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Regardless of what Dan says, I've had no problems with grabbing a junkyard VR, been running one for 15+ yrs. now!

READ!>>>>>http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/charging.htm

(Yeah, you go right on ahead and, uh, grab a regulator from all those old Mopars that aren't in the wrecking yards any more… )

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Some alternate names

All ain't Wells.

Dur-wont-last

Napa No Stock, Napa No Stock

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

NAPA: Never Any Parts Available

Damn shame; that used to be where the grownups and professionals went. Now NAPA's the same bulk wrap and fluff as all the other parts stores.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan:


I purchased one of these VR, don't recall if it had power coated chasses or not, but it would spatially kick alternator to full charge for a brief moment than kick out. I also had previously installed a ground loop picking up alternator, orange box and VR. I had to replace that 1001 before all smoke was liberated from car's electrical harness; luckily no smoke was lost due to this ill fated upgrade. I replaced electronic regulator VR1001 with mechanical VR that was on the car when I purchased it on 08. It has been working perfectly since.

Dan is correct, if voltage regulator ground is not of same potential as negative battery terminal (i.e. you got some voltage drop there son) it will not be able to keep harness at correct voltage. Same can be said of the + side or smoke filled side of circuit.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC