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 Post subject: A/c
PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2011 7:20 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Gresham, OR
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Hey guys
So as it's getting warmer, I've been wondering if my ac will work. I don't know if it really did when I got the truck back in November seeing as it was cold outside. Well on one of the warmer days I tried it, both ac and max ac. Nothing. It seems the compressor clutch will not engage. There is no burning or smoking or sqealing. Could this be an electrical problem or is it just a bad clutch? Idk if the system needs to be charged or not either. I did however, when I did the hei conversion, make sure all the wiring was correct for the engine bay part of the ac wiring, so if it's electrical I'd assume it's under the dash?!

Thanks for the help
Cody

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2011 10:35 am 
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Most likely low/out of refrigerant. there is a pressure switch, which prevents compressor operatin when low on charge. switch is usually on the drier. You can jumper the terminals, just to see if the compressor engages. Do not run it this way, it will damage the compressor, from lack of lubrcation. There might be a pressure switch by the expansion valve at the firewall, that would need to be jumpered, also.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 9:10 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Ok thanks Charlie. There are a couple switches by the firewall for the ac so I'll jump those and see if the clutch works. If so I'll get some more refrigerant for the system.

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.

Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 6:44 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Gresham, OR
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Ok bypassed the switches. Clutch works. So I'm out of refrigerant, I went to shucks and the don't have r12. Where can I get r12?

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.

Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 8:56 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: SW Washington
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Mexico.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 8:59 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model*: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Ross wrote:
Ok bypassed the switches. Clutch works. So I'm out of refrigerant, I went to shucks and the don't have r12. Where can I get r12?


ebay


You'll need EPA 609 certification

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 9:08 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Haha nice Josh. What about that freeze 12 stuff? It said you need to completely empty the system. Would that work?

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.

Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 3:46 am 
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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R-12 is still available, but it is pretty expensive, so you don't want it to leak out. You should really get the system leak tested/repaired. Before adding any refrigerant, you need to evacuate the system to remove any air/moisture, and I would highly recommend changing the drier.
I do not recommend using any refrigerant, other then R-12 or R134a after a proper retrofit.

PS: The price of R-12 has been dropping do to less demand. Most all cars that used R-12 have either been taken off the road, or have already been retrofitted. Most cars that still use R-12 are "classics" that want to stay original.
Wait till you see the price for the new auto A/C refrigerant, that will be used as of the 2013 model year (possibly some 2012). It is called HO1234YF, and is projected to cost about $2,000 per 30lb drum.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 3:47 am 
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emsvitil wrote:

You'll need EPA 609 certification


Legally, but individual sellers on E-bay don't worry about that.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 3:48 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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R-12 is still available, but it is pretty expensive, so you don't want it to leak out. You should really get the system leak tested/repaired. Before adding any refrigerant, you need to evacuate the system to remove any air/moisture, and I would highly recommend changing the drier.
I do not recommend using any refrigerant, other then R-12 or R134a after a proper retrofit.

PS: The price of R-12 has been dropping do to less demand. Most all cars that used R-12 have either been taken off the road, or have already been retrofitted. Most cars that still use R-12 are "classics" that want to stay original.
Wait till you see the price for the new auto A/C refrigerant, that will be used as of the 2013 model year (possibly some 2012). It is called HO1234YF, and is projected to cost about $2,000 per 30lb drum.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 5:41 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Ross wrote:
What about that freeze 12 stuff?


No. Not unless you want to trash your A/C system and have to do extensive/expensive repairs and then fill it with the correct refrigerant. Use R12 or do a proper conversion to R134a (those $20 "retrofit kits" from the parts store don't count as proper).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 5:49 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Charrlie_S wrote:
Wait till you see the price for the new auto A/C refrigerant, that will be used as of the 2013 model year (possibly some 2012). It is called HO1234YF, and is projected to cost about $2,000 per 30lb drum.


That's HFO1234yf (or R1234yf), and it looks like the initial price will be high, but so was the initial price of R134a.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 1:24 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6058
Location: So California
Car Model*: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Charrlie_S wrote:
emsvitil wrote:

You'll need EPA 609 certification


Legally, but individual sellers on E-bay don't worry about that.



Some do, I had to scan my card and send it to the seller when I bought mine.

I think ebay is requiring it.

If you find a seller that only has 2 cans you probably don't need it.

_________________
Ed

64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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