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 Post subject: yes...
PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 5:32 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
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Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model*: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
Reed, as a chemist, I love it when there is a solution that is this easy (and safe). Granted, it's a pain to remove the paint first, but then it's simply patience, while you watch the rust disappear. Note also, if you want it to go faster, you can pull the part, brush rusty areas lightly, rinse with the hose and redunk the part. The evaporust loosens the heavy rust pretty quickly, so you can save the rust removing power by brushing off/rinsing away the heavy rust that came loose early in the process. If you don't, it'll still work but it's dissolving stuff that has already come loose or fallen off in the dunk tank, might as well rinse that stuff off and redunk. Besides, I can't help myself, I like to monitor the process periodically, its fun to watch...

brian

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 Post subject: Re: yes...
PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 8:10 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
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'67 Dart 270 wrote:
Reed, as a chemist, I love it when there is a solution that is this easy (and safe).


Ha. I see what you did there. A "solution."

'67 Dart 270 wrote:
Granted, it's a pain to remove the paint first, but then it's simply patience, while you watch the rust disappear. Note also, if you want it to go faster, you can pull the part, brush rusty areas lightly, rinse with the hose and redunk the part. The evaporust loosens the heavy rust pretty quickly, so you can save the rust removing power by brushing off/rinsing away the heavy rust that came loose early in the process. If you don't, it'll still work but it's dissolving stuff that has already come loose or fallen off in the dunk tank, might as well rinse that stuff off and redunk. Besides, I can't help myself, I like to monitor the process periodically, its fun to watch...

brian


I will definitely keep thi sstuff in mind for my truck and my brother's Duster project.

I did chemistry in college. I couldn't get it. I have great respect for people that can do the sciences.


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 Post subject: next....
PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 10:51 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Posts: 1971
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model*: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
next are my hood and trunk lid, the key is making/finding a vessel with the right dimensions to soak them in....

With the supports under the sheet metal, it seems to me a liquid soak is the only way to truly get between the supports and sheet metal and be confident that all the rust was removed.

b

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 5:08 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Reed:
Quote:
I did chemistry in college. I couldn't get it.


Ditto, my solution (there's that word again) was to marry one, a chemist that is, its been better than asking technology challenged Alexa, and the Mrs. can cook really good... Win win.

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82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 5:20 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Downeast Maine
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For soaking large objects build a frame from 2x6 or 2x8 whatever is needed with floor of plywood, and line with 6 mill poly.. Making a kiddy pool of sorts.

I would place this pool on sawhorses so any left over Derusto solution could easily be siphoned out for future use.

I forgot the year of your car, trunk deck depending on it's shape say the later "L" shaped lids two soakings, one for large flat area, a second turned up 90* to get the 7 - 9 inch drop vertical drop-down portion. One could fasten several props to frame of pool to hold lid in position.

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 Post subject: Thanks Wjajr
PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 4:16 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model*: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
That sounds like a plan, I especially like putting the thing on horses so I can drain it/recover the soup.

I added day 4 pics. You can see it's getting down to the last deeply rooted spots, should be pretty well done by the weekend. At least this half of the dash. It's also temperature sensitive, hot summer soaks are faster than cold winter soaks, but they both work. It's been about 50 degrees at night here and about 65-70 in the daytime.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/151192512 ... 7391539566

Brian

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 5:26 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Quote:
hot summer soaks are faster than cold winter soaks


Well said, around here outdoor winter soak begets a phase change where solid rust meets solid ice; slow indeed. It would take a month past the Vernal equinox before any rust abatement would resume.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.

82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp

07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC



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 Post subject: ok, yes...
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 6:33 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
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Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model*: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
...I'll admit, "winter" in the SF Bay area means about 40-50 degrees most days.

b

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 Post subject: day 5 of rust removal
PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 7:13 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model*: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I've added day 5 pics.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/151192512 ... 284043910/

You can see many of the pits from which rust was removed. There are still some black spots remaining, those are the last of the deep rust areas. It looks like I'll need to soak it for another few days before flipping the piece over. When there are no more black spots, all the rust is gone.

brian

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 7:27 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model*: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Does the solution leave something behind so the rust stay away?

(Unlike diluted HCL)

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 Post subject: yes..
PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 11:51 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 1971
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model*: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
If you pull the part and don't rinse it off with water, it leaves a layer of the active ingredient on the metal. This may cause some blue or dark color but it is fine and can be removed. You'll want to remove this before painting, but yes, it can be left to dry on there.

I usually rinse the part, as any flash layer of rust that might form is minimal. Also, I usually paint the part immediately after drying. For this dash, where the freshly derusted half will be exposed to the ambient while the other half soaks, any flash layer that forms on the derusted side can be removed nearly instantly by redipping that side. That is, once the heavy rust is gone, any flash layer can be removed really quickly with a redip. So I avoid letting the product dry on the part. I usually rinse, dry and paint immediately. To be clear, when this half is done, I'll rinse and dry it, then dip the other side. Once that side is done, if a flash layer formed on the first side, I'll just redip the first side for a bit, rinse the whole part, dry and primer/paint.

brian

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 Post subject: 8 days
PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 8:38 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 1971
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model*: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
almost there, just a few black spots on the attachment tab. It's cleaning out the rust between the metal seams well. It should be done by this weekend, so that was two weeks (it was a dilute solution).

https://www.flickr.com/photos/151192512 ... 7391539566

Brian

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 Post subject: first side done
PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 2:56 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 1971
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model*: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
The drivers side is done, see additional 6 pics. You can see the part is starting to get a blue hue to it, this is a passivation layer (supposedly protects it). I rinsed and dried the part and now have dunked the other half. There is no rust on the first half. (I should start building that dunk tank for my old hood, but I have to remove more paint from it first).

Brian

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