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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 1:19 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 2:49 pm
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Location: Houston, TX
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All of these window crank knobs in my collection seem more loose than they need to be (not sure how loose they were from the factory), but this one from my Valiant driver's door is the worst. I removed it thinking there'd be a screw to tighten on the back side, but there's just a flat end. If this fitting is just pressed together I can work with that, but I don't want to break it.

Here's what I'm looking at:

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 2:00 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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After taking a closer look at the gap between knob and handle, I caught a glint of what definitely looks like threads on the shaft. There's nothing to grab onto on the back side, so I think I'll dremel a slot in the blank head. If I can get it apart, I'll probably replace it with a standard machine screw.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 2:17 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
Posts: 787
Location: Rome, GA
Car Model*: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
I'm interested to see how this turn out.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 2:22 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
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Location: IRWIN PA
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I doubt they are threads.. probably more like splines or knurling.

If i remember correctly from my 64 they are a press fit.


Any small press or a vise with creative blocking could work to press it back together.


Greg

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 2:18 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 5:56 pm
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Location: TEXAS
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They are press fit. I took the original handles off, drilled and tapped the knobs and put them back together with a teflon washer on the back.(for future wear)

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 5:58 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Houston, TX
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Thanks for the input, y'all. I took a closer look through the narrow gap with a flashlight, carefully rotating the knob around as I watched. The circumferential ridge I saw is not a thread after all. It's a flat continuous circle all the way around, rather than an incline that disappears in one direction or the other. Maybe it's meant to stop the fitting from being pressed too far and binding up, since the knob still has to rotate after assembly.

I'll report back later on my efforts to press it back together a little more tightly.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 6:35 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model*: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Do you think you could snap in an 'e-clip' in the gap to tighten things up?

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 6:57 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
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Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model*: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
First thing I would try is pressing in a vise a few mm, see if it tightens up. Small socket on the pin in the back, and use wood on the front so as not to mar the chrome. Easy peasy to see how it responds as you put pressure on it.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 11:13 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model*: 82 Ramcharger, 76 D100
Maybe these?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 8:36 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jun 09, 2007 7:20 am
Posts: 236
Location: Portland, Or.
Car Model*: '64 Valiant Convertible
Have you thought about the root cause of the loose knob? The knob is the symptom...

If there is excessive friction in the window sliding, or lack of lubrication on the moving parts of the window regulator, the effort required to crank the window will be like chunky peanut butter rather than butter.

How many ups and downs has the driver window performed in 55 years?


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