You could put some drawers or cabinets in the backboard...……….
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| trunk redo https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=63826 |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sun Jul 14, 2019 9:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | trunk redo |
Finally finished my trunk upgrade on my '67 Dart, see here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/151192512 ... 1022921133 Happy to share knowledge for anyone interested. I looked at a lot of trunk redos and used elements of the best of them. The side panels are magnetically attached. A lot of work, but well worth it. Brian |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sun Jul 14, 2019 9:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
How did you get the spare to fit in the well? |
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| Author: | Louise76 [ Sun Jul 14, 2019 9:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
Thanks. That got me thinking outside my normal "box" focus. P |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sun Jul 14, 2019 9:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
I used a late model spare from a Ford Taurus X, 2008-2010, same bolt pattern 5 x 4 1/2 but the center hole was just a tad smaller than a mopar hub. I removed about 1mm or so from the hole, fits perfectly. Very narrow, so it fits in the trunk tub easily with room to spare. That board over the spare is 1/2" thick and has a 1" thick board on the bottom to sit on the spare's rim for support. brian |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sun Jul 14, 2019 10:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
Added some photos. The OEM mopar trunk light switch was too long, it interfered with taking the driver side panel off, so I used a Lexus (Toyota) rear door interior light switch. Just bolt it to the normal hole for the trunk light, it still hits the trunk lid just right to work. I'm putting an electric trunk release in as well, mopar, part number 4054925 (actually Lectron Products). |
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| Author: | Reed [ Mon Jul 15, 2019 1:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
Dang! That is some nice work! Good job! |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Mon Jul 15, 2019 1:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
Additional note, although I didn't show it, I sealed all wood with oil based urethane and/or paint to prevent any moisture absorption...I'll be sure to try my very best to get that rear window sealed properly though...that's next. |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Mon Jul 15, 2019 5:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
What tire size is that spare? Greg |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Mon Jul 15, 2019 7:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
I'll look when I get home and post, Greg. Brian |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Mon Jul 15, 2019 8:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
Greg, the tire is a 125/90R15. I'm running 215/60R15's, so this tire is 1.3" smaller in diameter. I added a pic of the sidewall to the album. Brian |
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| Author: | DadTruck [ Wed Jul 17, 2019 9:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
That is really nice, ez to see that you have woodworking skills. You may never sell 100 of them, but I bet there is some market for an A body trunk kit like that. |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Wed Jul 17, 2019 3:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
Yeah, of course they sell them for Camaro's and Mustang's, but not A-body Mopars. I did study the construction of some of those off the shelf kits, they are mass produced and cheaply made. Mine is built to last, no more heavy object rolling into the inside of the quarter panels when I make a turn. I looked online at some custom one's as well, some are really nice but e.g. leave the filler pipe out in the open (to get a bit more storage space). I wanted mine to be very clean. I actually made it so vertical panels are recessed relative to the lip where the trunk seal goes. The plan is to put a strip of LED's under that lip, on all three sides so my trunk light completely illuminates the trunk. I'm getting old and need more light so... brian |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Wed Jul 17, 2019 3:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
Further construction notes: I used 1/2" plywood for the base board, side and back board. The frames are 1" x 2" poplar and they are screwed down to the base board, screwed into the back board and a used an L bracket at the back and secured them to the braces just inside of where the tail lights are. That way the side frames are secured on three sides, the base board won't move, and the whole assembly is essentially a 3 sided box. The back board has a support frame behind it. The back board attaches to the support frame behind it by screws that pass through the frame and screw into the back of the back board. None of the assembly touches the sheet metal above it or the filler tube and it doesn't interfere with the hinges or hinge springs, there is plenty of room in that regard. I used 1/2" thick dynamat insulation under the base board for cushion and sound deadening. As you can see, I measured and marked a square on the base board for the spare tire lid and then used something round to make the corners round. I screwed 1/8" thick steel plate to each corner of the spare tire hole to support the lid. I was thinking about adding a hinge to that lid, may still, but it doesn't need it. You don't open that lid very often. With the steel plate supporting the lid, you can make it magnetically attach as well, by recessing neodymium magnets in the underside of the lid. I may still do this; I'll drive it and see if the lid moves to help me decide. At the rear, I used 1/4" MDF board to cover the angled area where the wiring for the tail lights runs and the trunk latch is. As you can see, I had to cut special notches for the ribbed supports there. I carpeted those supports and the trunk latch before installing the carpeted 1/4" MDF pieces. Those pieces are attached with L brackets at each end, to the trunk latch support and at the same braces near the tail lights where the side frames behind the side panels are attached. The upper edge of the MDF boards fits snugly into that curved sheet metal lip at the mouth of the trunk. The bottom edge of the MDF boards is just resting on the base board. The 1/4" MDF boards sit on top of the L bracket and I countersunk some flat head bolts in the MDF so the carpet would lie flat on the MDF. For the magnetic attached side panels, I mounted 3/8" neodymium magnets in the side frames behind the boards and used low profile binding barrel screws in the panels, countersunk so the panels would lie flat on the frames and the carpet on the panels would also be flat. With the back board and side frames, all assembled and screwed into place, put the side panels against the frames where they will go, and drill small pilot holes through the panels and into the frame so you know where to drill into each for the magnet and bind barrel screws and they line up when you're done. I used 1" wide braided nylon strap for the handles on the spare tire lid and side panels, screwed to the back of each with a shallow screw and a washer. Brian |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Wed Jul 17, 2019 10:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
You could put some drawers or cabinets in the backboard...……….
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Thu Jul 18, 2019 6:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: trunk redo |
Could, yes, there is room. i wasn't that ambitious... |
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