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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2022 7:44 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon May 26, 2014 4:02 pm
Posts: 419
Location: Vermont
Car Model: Slant Six M37
I just did some font end work on my M37. New upper and lower knuckle bearings.

After installing the original tie rods back into the knuckle, the slotted nut ends up being down almost below the slots on the nut, so the cotter pin is basically useless. I can not remember how things were when I took it apart 3 months ago...

What are my options? Guessing that drilling a new hole slightly lower may be the best option but figured I would ask those who have more knowledge and wisdom.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2022 8:10 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:25 am
Posts: 790
Location: Springtucky OR
Car Model:
Put a washer under the nut?
Find a taller castle nut?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2022 9:44 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon May 26, 2014 4:02 pm
Posts: 419
Location: Vermont
Car Model: Slant Six M37
ProCycle wrote:
Put a washer under the nut?
Find a taller castle nut?


Both suggestions are appealing, and far simpler.

Is a washer under the nut acceptable? Does it need to be hardened, or will a plain washer work?

I am under the impression that a washer would/could cause things to loosen up. Maybe that is absurd, but I don't want to experience such a problem.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2022 10:06 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:25 am
Posts: 790
Location: Springtucky OR
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My thoughts are that a hardened washer shouldn't be necessary. In fact, once the taper of the tie rod end is seated into the bore it should stay there and not move. Even if the nut went missing a good taper fit is strong enough to hold. The nut serves as a safety and the cotter pin as a backup safety.

However, using a hardened washer wouldn't hurt. I'd look for one that was a snug fit around the shaft so it carries the full load.

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--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2022 6:20 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon May 26, 2014 4:02 pm
Posts: 419
Location: Vermont
Car Model: Slant Six M37
ProCycle wrote:
My thoughts are that a hardened washer shouldn't be necessary. In fact, once the taper of the tie rod end is seated into the bore it should stay there and not move. Even if the nut went missing a good taper fit is strong enough to hold. The nut serves as a safety and the cotter pin as a backup safety.

However, using a hardened washer wouldn't hurt. I'd look for one that was a snug fit around the shaft so it carries the full load.


Ok, Thank you. That is a lot easer than I was going to make this into.


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