Rebuilding an air box to add factory AC to an 85 D150.
I have a couple of them apart, and the foam in the recirc door is shot on both. Foam on other doors still good.
Metal door itself in good shape
I want to scrape off the remnants, and glue on some.replacement foam,
I've looked /have a PN, but these doors are discontinued from Mopar.
I bought an air box reseal kit from DMT but this foam isn't included, on the site within the description of the kit on their website they say in big bold.print that they don't include the foam for the doors, and they get asked this all the time.
What would be a suitable foam and where to get?
I did look on McMaster Carr website and they show 100 different kinds of foam sheet but I don't know which one to pick.
Has to stand up to both moisture and the max heat capable of the truck's heater.
Needs to be about 1/4-5/16-ish thick

Don,
I 100% rebuilt the under dash ac / heater box when I re did the 83 D150.
For the foam I bought bulk foam material from an on line foam seller.
I looked at the oe foam seals that were in place. There are basically two kinds of foam seals.
Open foam seals that crush down nearly 100% and closed foam seals that have enough body that they conform and seal with out crushing down.
Replace the open foam seals with new open foam material using the existing oe seals as a template.
Do the same with the closed foam seals.
Look at a couple of bulk foam seller web sites, they give a good description of the foam density and uses.
For the glue I used 3M spray on adhesive.

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Yeah I looked at what McMaster Carr has to offer for quite a while, too many options there, just confused myself. I got the kit that DMT sells already,has everything but the foam for the doors within the box, they say in bold that they get asked for it often but don't have . The same website description that tells what it does come with, doesn't give any insight on where to get or what kind of foam to get for that. .I only need it for the door on the far passenger side of the box, the foam on the other 2 doors is fine.
I'm thinking some kind of "closed cell". .
I'm headed out the door to the swap in Indy in a few minutes today, Hope to find something there

Getting off topic from post, but Indy today was a bust.
Did see 1 4 bbl intake and a set of headers, was marked "sold" before I got there.
Did get a floor shift column for the truck.
Glad I didn't get the 1st one I saw, $150. Next guy I found with one was only $50. Tried $40 wasn't budging.
Found a 3rd one that a guy I know had there
, Didn't know that guy was even gonna be there. Lots of BB, hemi stuff, both 426 and 5.7.
Given the weather which is getting worse as I head back NW towards home, maybe should have skipped this year.
Was dang expensive before I even browsed the first table. 10 to park and then $15/ea to enter the building. Ridiculous.
A pretzel for the wife, an order of fries for the grand kid and 1 fountain pop for all of us to share was $17.
So basically $60 gone before I ever browsed my first booth....

https://www.grainger.com/category/raw-m ... ature-foam

https://usasealing.com/products/standar ... 3714190409 (you don't really need sheets, you could use strips to create a foam seal for the perimeter of what needs to be sealed against)

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Got some, waded thru the choices at McMaster Carr, the particular one I finally chose is available in a few different "hardness"/softness" levels, I got the "middle of the road " version, I think there were 5 levels, I probably should have gotten 1 level "softer" (based on amount of "squeeze " they have, but I'm pretty sure that what I got will work.
I couldn't have done a "perimeter seal" very well, once I got what was left of the original foam off there were holes in the metal core that would have been open if I'd have just sealed the perimeter.
I ended up scraping, then bead blasting the core metal doors and then I coated with POR15, let that dry overnite then attached the foam with 3m "super 77" spray adhesive.