Pretty sure not (likely a 5 speed), but that belhousing looks like it should be in a museum!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I think for this summer it will keep the 3 on the tree. I hate that darned 903 transmission, but I will probably run out of time to futz with it.

This little engine rebuild project took much longer than I wanted it to. There is a bit of re-engineering to do with the 5-speed swap, so I will probably get that in next fall/winter.

My main concern is that I want to keep/preserve the bench seat for the v200 wagon the way it is supposed to be. The T5 is high and the shifter is far back so I am not sure how well that will work with my bench as of now. At worst, I can repurpose my Original '64 Dart GT Seat frames and turn them into V200/Signet Front seats with a bit of reupholstery magic.. I don't want to do that, but I may have to.
My other 5-speed swap was on a 2nd generation A body bucket seat car so I am not sure how all of this will play out yet.

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It can be a 5 Speed, I have it all worked out with this bell housing, Just need to figure out the other things as mentioned in the post above.

They do look pretty nice when they first emerge from the paint booth, hate to put it in the trans tunned and get it all dirty and such!

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SHOW US YER FIVE-ON-THE-TREEEEEEEEE!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Wow, I don't think I am quite ready for that engineering challenge yet. Although that would sure be a stealthy good idea to keep that stock look which I am a fan of. I even went as far as installing the Factory "Amber Reverse dash warning light" on my '69 Dart when I converted it to a 4-speed. Factory '69 darts with 4 speed have those dash lights but '69 darts with 3 on the tree do not.

Once I get the bench seat issue sorted out on my car for the T5 placement, I will use the ?'60/'61 Chrmred snake 3-speed floor shifter - I was able to acquire one with the nubby white knob and all - It will need a good rechrome, but I have one.

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3/14/24:

I have been getting some small things done - I am still waiting on the proper valve locks to be manufactured and arrive from PAC. I have been trying to set my spring heights and pressures. So far, I cannot get them quite right without trying a few more bits.

I also ordered some parts from Dr. Diff, and am waiting for those to arrive so I can build the 3rd member for the 8 3/4" axle.

I also CC'd A new to me head that has been milled and unknown amount with 11/32" stem Chevy 1.7/1.44 valves, new guides, and the spring seats machined for more cam / valve lift.The head came in at 42.2CC which is good to get this engine in the Mid 9:1 CR range which will be perfect for this combination.

I also found that I have a reputable local chrome shop within walking distance from the shop. There actually used to be 2 chrome shops in town, and about 2 years ago the other shop closed up when the owner passed away. I decided to give Bill a try with some spare Door handles. - They turned out great!

I finished up the front parking lights with new lenses and seals, got them installed and tested.

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3/19/24:

The parts arrived that were ordered from Dr. Diff. A bunch of stuff needed to make a swap meet "741" carrier and 3.55 gears work well was sourced, including: Dr. Diff Torsen style differential, pinion bearings, races, seal and carrier bearings. The 3rd member was setup and installed.


The 7.25" axle that is being replaced also had a 3.55:1 ratio in it as this was an original factory "stick car"

The axles were installed without much fuss, and I started to assemble the rear brakes when I realized that there were no parking brake levers in the donor rear brake parts that were acquired for this build. A set of rear parking brake levers were ordered from Dante's MoPar parts and they should arrive this week.




The front upper control arms were installed and the ball joint threads on the LH arm were stripped. The ball joint was just swimming around in there having fun, so I broke out the hot glue gun and welded the ball joint to the upper arm. This fix has been used before and should provide satisfactory service for quite a while. If you have been following the epic saga here, you will recall that about a year ago I rebuilt the upper arms with new bushes and upper ball joints as well as a fresh paint job.

Welded:


Not welded = Good Threads


Lifter valley return "stand offs" were installed as per Doc Dutra's recommendations.
The '62 Block has 6 Lifter Gallery return holes; at Ø25/64" each - some of the later blocks have 5 oil drain holes at a larger maybe Ø1/2", leaving out the return hole above the oil pump arm.
A cheap and easy solution for the oil standoffs can be fashioned out of some valve guides wit some drilling and turning as needed - I Found some SBI engine parts powered metal guides that cut and drill very easily.


Lastly, the camshaft went in for some degree work. The head is still incomplete; waiting on some valve locks. My goal is 101° intake lobe ℄ for this build.
I installed the Rollmaster timing set with a small amount of hand sanding and also a bit of anti-seize on the bottom gear and installed it in at "0" on the crank gear. The cam degreed in at 102.5°℄ and my goal is 101°. so I am going to advance the cam 2° and then I should be very close at 100.5°



More updates to come!

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Can't tell from this pic whether you've got white or amber bulbs in your front turn signals there. 1962 was the last year for white front turn signals.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi Dan,

Thank you. I believe I have read that link before. Not sure how many of the details that I can accurately recall, but i know that I have seen the Lancer/Dart lenses in clear and amber and the Chrysler in the rear view mirror picture before.

My lenses are clear with amber bulbs in the sockets. It is sure hard to tell in that picture, you are correct there. I might have to get better amber bulbs I bought some but am not sure if I am happy with their colour output for some reason.

I personally am not a fan of white blinker/indicator/front position lights with clear lenses. I like the amber in there like the '67-'69 US Darts had.

Greg

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Amber bulbs ("NA" suffix) used to be made with Cadmium glass, which could give a good amber colour but is extra super toxic. No problem if you're handling light bulbs, but when the bulb gets crushed (whether in a car crash or in a crusher), it sends Cadmium directly into the environment. So Cad glass is pretty much off the market, and good grades of non-Cad amber glass are expensive, and most bulbs are now made in China of the cheapest possible materials, so…there you are.

What you want is a set of old-stock GE 2357NA bulbs, made in Hungary. 25 per cent brighter turn signals than 1157NA or 1034NA. They're out there if you beat the bushes. I have plenty of 'em on the shelf.

While you're at it, put in a new-type turn signal flasher (2-prong like original; connect its ground wire conveniently). This will operate the brighter bulbs at the correct flash rate, and it has much lower internal resistance than the original type, for even brighter turn signals.

(the "A"-suffix bulbs are clear glass with a coloured coating; some of those are okeh, but often the coating bakes/fades/flakes off).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan, I do have a few of the UP Flashers in some other vehicles. good to know that they are not flasher shaped trinkets.

Good to know on the bulbs too, I will buy some when needed.

I also plan at some point to mod the wiring so that the front parking lights remain on with the headlights like the 1969- newer cars.

Greg

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'68-up. That's easy. Remove the headlamp switch and unplug its multi-wire connector. Put a short piece of 18ga wire between from the "P" to the "R" terminals on the headlamp switch body, right down at the base of those terminals. Make sure the ends of the jumper are neatly tucked so they won't touch any adjacent terminals. Solder if you like. Then push the connector back onto the switch, on top of your new jumper wire which won't get in the way, and reinstall the headlamp switch.

(if you prefer, of course, you can trace the wires that connect to "P" and "R" on the switch and put the jumper between the wires themselves)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Mmm, me needs to do this too on my 62-66 cars...

Thanks, Lou

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Does that not include early production '68's

I have personally experienced 2 '68's where the park lights turned off with headlights. (Ruster and '68 Dart GT that I took to the prom)

They were black plastic door button cars which as I understand it was early production. Maybe pre 1/1/68 build date.

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FMVSS 108 (lamps-lights-reflectors), along with some of the other first federal safety standards, took effect on 1/1/68. Prior to that date, many-most but not all '68 vehicles met the standards. Some of them didn't have side marker lights or reflectors, some of them didn't keep the parking lights lit with the headlamps on, etc.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.