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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2024 5:07 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 8345
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
On this setup, the manifolds/header need to be removed to remove the starter,


You are a gluten for punishment! :D :D No mini starter :?:

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2024 7:10 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 9070
Location: IRWIN PA
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Rick Covalt wrote:
Quote:
On this setup, the manifolds/header need to be removed to remove the starter,


You are a gluten for punishment! :D :D No mini starter :?:


Nah, not on this one. On some of my cars, I want semi-originality or period correctness in place of all-out performance or weight savings. This starter "looks proper". It's no mini for sure. I have the same big honkin' Chrysler Gear reduction starter on the '69 Dart too. even though you cannot see it at all - It makes me happy to know that it is there.

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 Post subject: 4/21/24
PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2024 6:47 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 9070
Location: IRWIN PA
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4/21/24:

I have about 14 hours in the front header pipes / down pipes etc. that connect the headers to the merge collector behind the cross member.
I got both the front and rear header collector pipes down to the suspension level and past the bell housing. The stuff I am making now will be much better than the previous owner's muffler shop garbage with aluminized pipe. poor fitting, leaking boogered MIG welds and clangy pipes that did not allow for a clutch linkage adjustment.

This chassis has to be the most difficult to complete this sort of custom down pipe fabrication on. With the 3 speed column to transmission rods, clutch linkage torque shaft, and giant power steering box, all in close proximity. I did this job on my 64 Dart before. I had slightly more room on that car, and I wanted this iteration to be better, so it is slower going.

I started with some of these:
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For the front pipe I left the header collector reducer alone and began burning pipe right onto it.
The front pipe 90°'s down toward the frame rail, then bends again just above the torsion bar.
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Here is what that pipe looks like semi completed:
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When the gaps are right, the hot glue gun runs like butter:
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For the rear pipe that was not possible, no way that long ~5" of stainless reducer would clear what is going on under the car.
So a little slicing and dicing to the stainless works part was needed:
I ended up with about ~ 1" of header reducer. Maybe not Ideal, but required for the packaging of this car - It aint' no E Body or Truck!
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Little by little..
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A lot of work was required to get to this point.
I realized that Here, I needed to order some more 45° Mandel bends to complete the job. So they are ordered.
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Just another 2-3 feet to get from that monstrosity of front pipes, pie cuts, and bends to here:
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But that will be the easy part (probably)!

These pipes sure look goofy because I have yet to figure out where to cut and at what angle, and if I need some more pie cuts it there too.
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See you next time!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 8:30 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 9070
Location: IRWIN PA
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SlantSixDan wrote:
Videos with sound, of the startup!

Ahem... YES SIR!

First Fire Just for you Dan! I am not sure if that is the starter sound you want, as it is a parts store rebuild on there, sounds like an '80's starter to me.. But it's MoPar nonetheless. No nippondenso here that I can tell.

Enjoy!

Greg

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2024 1:52 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24256
Location: North America
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Nice vid. Engine sounds healthy! That starter is the large-frame 1.8-horsepower item first used on the 440 in '74. Factory-installed at random on everything from 225s on up through the '70s and until the end of the Chrysler-built starter ('87 was the last year for it). The extra size of that starter is aggravating your starter swap difficulty on that car; might want to put on a small-frame starter…which would also bring back that "like it's supposed to" cranking sound.

The large-frame starter is a reman № 3258. The small-frame reman is a № 3257. The correct starter fell out of the reman cattledogs long ago; it was a № 3250.

(Wanna see/hear me nerd out about Chrysler OSGR starters? Wanna see it again?) :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2024 2:27 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 9070
Location: IRWIN PA
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I think The proper starter is in my Yellow / beige ugly '62.. I will have to get you a quick video of that one gor you to confirm. There is one I pulled off the '62 170 powered parts car that I turned into the ValianTrailer.
I never heard that one run/ start. I just put it on my shelf 'o starters for when I am older I guess?

:D :mrgreen: :D

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