Hi Dan, I never did buy one of those reports.

I probably never thought at the time that I would find one, let alone 2 '60-'62 valiants that I would eventually own.. Or maybe I was so uneducated that I was never interested in one, that is until I rode in one. They are quite the engineering feat. And just goofy enough that I like ' em a lot.

Thank you for shedding some er, uh, ahem, light on the subject.

I know you have never heard that one before, so feel free to chuckle with the eeeeeeeeeeevillll villain cackle or not.

Thanks for the info!

Greg

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2/23/24:


I got the battery tray reasonably sorted. Welded in, and smoothed the patch. It's there but you probably can't find it in the picture. I did a repaint of the tray and the arms supporting it. It should be the engine compartment color, but I have no idea what color the car is now after the previous owner resprayed it some shiny metallic blue, so I just used rattle can goods.



I also cleaned up the hood latch/catch mechanisms. The upper part on the hood should be galvanised.. I lightly blasted it to remove all of the blue paint that the body shop covered it in. I hope the blasting did not remove much of the surface zinc.

The hood latch on the radiator yoke is supposed to be cadmium plated - so no luck on buying the plating kit for that yet. I will just paint that metallic silver for now and can easily unbolt and replate it later as needed.

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Blue battery pan is good for 0.25 off your 1/4-mile ET on the strip, and about 1/2 mpg on the street. Scientifical fact.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Then I'm putting one in my race car!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

psychological horsepower

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Hyper_pak

That's the kind Chrysler used when the Slant-6 was new. That "101 horsepower" rating for the new 170 engine sure was convenient for the marketers, eh! A nice li'l one-up over a hundred horsepower. You get more…with Valiant! And the 225's nice, tidy, neat, ends-in-5 "145 horsepower" rating, again real nice for the marketers. In heavy-duty trucks and industrial applications, the same 225 with the same camshaft and a slightly bigger carburetor was rated 127 horsepower, pretty much bang-on with what GM found when they bought a 1961 Lancer, took the (aluminum) 225 out of it, and extensively tested it. My theory: horsepower numbers sell cars, and once the car's sold that number is irrelevant. But truck/industrial buyers have a real need to know what they're getting, hence the less-sexy, more-accurate numbers shown to them.

Psychological horsepower, then.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

2/26/24:

I got a few more things detailed and accomplished over the weekend:

I realized when looking at the last picture, the previous shop did not detail the fender tag for some reason, so it was a bit rusty and nasty looking, I blasted it and tossed some blue paint on the tag and the screws.

I also installed the steering column, and did some sheet metal work, as some thin spots were hiding behind the ~1/4 of the factory sound deadener in some places.




I cleaned up the bulkhead connector and detailed the original bulkhead retaining clips.



I also set up some new terminals on my refurbished parking light. - I bought an open-barrel crimper tool and some Packard-style open-barrel crimp terminals from the local auto electrical store to perform a re-termination using female terminals on my parking light. I found a terminal housing that matched the parking light on my "scrap car wiring haness" it was out of something like a '78 New Yorker or something like that, so it has a lot of these odds n ends for many '60's-'80's Chrysler vehicles in a pinch. I think it has been hanging behind the man door in the house garage area for 20 years. It's a part that keeps giving.



I ordered some new hood insulation and Retaining clips from DMT. That cleaned up nicely.

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Hey, interesting! Is the new DMT hood insulation pad die-cut like the original, with the triangular sections cut partway through the material to nest up into the underhood webbing? I ask because up to now all the repro '60-'62 Valiant-Lancer pads have not had that, so they don't nest with the webbing and take on a poofy/tufted appearance once clipped to the hood. I'm not seeing any of that on your install, hence my interest.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

What is the round hole for in the hood bracing for?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Radiator Cap Clearance I believe.

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Hi Dan, I was unaware that anyone even made reproduction hood pads for this car in North America. I am sure you know or can find out. I just did not want the hassle of doing all the research, as I assumed they would be hard to find and/or source from any place other than Australia or Argentina.

Because of my assumptions, I took the original one off of the hood, with the semi-die cuts on the topside that faces the metal hood, and placed it engine side down on a sheet of 8?' x 4' generic hood insulating pad that I bought from DMT, and then traced the original part's shape onto the new material and then cut it out and poked some holes in where the clips belong. I believe that the side that is supposed to face the engine compartment is facing the metal underside of the hood ( I did it backwards, not on purpose, just because I am a dumbass) and did not have enough raw material to do another tracing. and so I installed it that way.

So due to my ineptness and lack of restoration knowledge, it is not poofy and flat the way it should look.

So maybe restoration ineptness = restoration correctness??!?! (in this case)


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Repro pads are readily available in North America from REM Automotive, listed in the parts sources post. Part number is PLY-HIN-040 or DOD-HIN-075; same item under two different part numbers. No die cuts for the hood webbing. Shop around; different REM dealers have different prices on it.

AFAIK it's not available in Australia, and I know it's not available in Argentina (I sent two of the REM items down there last year, to the guy who would know if it were available locally to him).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Good to know, I was too lazy to look and made my own. oh well, now I know.
Thank you again!

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

3/4/24:

I got some more things accomplished. Nothing super important, but fiddly stuff that takes time.

I am still waiting on parts to properly set the valve spring pressures on my head before I start to assemble the engine. That is the big hold-up on engine assembly for me right now.

I got the OE 3-speed bell housing all cleaned and ready for reassembly. As bell housings go this one was just as grimy inside as any other one I have ever come across.
Parts look good and I ordered a new clutch fork boot.
It is clean now and I found a damaged threaded hole. so I fixtured the part up on the drill press and set it up for heli-coil surgery.


The surgery went well - no problems.


Shiny:



I also spent a few hours back and forth futzing with the Crank Scraper - they always need to be adjusted to be close and correct without banging into the rotating assembly.


Lastly, I measured the pistons in the holes to begin to calculate the compression ratio.

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Izzit gonna still have the 3-on-the-tree when you're all done?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.