Does anybody have tips for replacing the seals in the power steering box? I think the 32-year-old seals may be biting the dust.

I've got the 1970 manual, and the directions for seal replacement in the car require special tools. Can this be done without them? Is there a simple way to machine some simple device that will get them in and out?

Thanks!

Mark W. Marasch



My car is a 1970 Swinger. I've just recently added 383 torsion rods, polygraphite bushings, and 11 3/4" brakes. I need to get the temp tags, an alignment, and pass Colorado emissions--then my toy will be back on the road!

Seeing that the rebuild / seal kit is about $50.00 and a rebuilt PS Box is about $200.00 you may want to get the replacement box, these can be bought as "firm feel" which have the stiffer reaction springs.

you will be time ahead just swapping steering boxes rather then spending the time rebuilding one.

With any power steering box replacement, be sure to hook the new steering box up to the pump and test run it under pressure, before you bolt it in.
DD

you can use a flat screwdriver to pop the small seal out where the steering column attaches, then use a socket of appropriate diameter to drive the new oone in. the sector shaft seal is a different story as it is a bit recessed in the casting. this one may not be a problem as it doesn't see any pressure like the other. it's more like a dust seal if i remember correctly. any real fluid leak here would indicate a toasted box also, you may want to go ahead and replace the o-rings under the valve body where the lines attach. you can just go and match these up at your local parts store. just be sure and leave the bolts loose when you start the car so you can adjust the valve body so the steering wheel doesn't go to full lock after you let go. you may have ten bucks tied up in the input seal and o-rings. but like doug said, a reman box sells for a couple of bills and a firm feel can be had for like five hundred.

-james

_________________