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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 5:53 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 9078
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
Reed wrote:
Dart270 wrote:
Totally tubular to the max, dude...

Lou


Bodaciously gnarly, dude.


Rad too.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 9:02 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2128
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
Many folks weld them in place after putting a new ball joint in. The "threads" supplied by the factory are pretty weak. When you remove the first (original) ball joint, all bets are off as to whether the threads are in decent shape to hold the new ball joint. Often you'll see metal slivers and such on the threads. So, people often just tack the new one in place with a few welds to make sure it doesn't unscrew. I imagine yours didn't pop out, but unscrewed. If you can screw it back in and it seems to be snug, with your socket and large leverage device, then tacking it in with a welder should be enough.

Brian

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 4:12 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2008 2:50 pm
Posts: 179
Location: Denver Pa
Car Model:
Snap-on socket, 3/4 " drive impact and a few weld tacks and life will be good again.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 8:52 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:31 am
Posts: 174
Location: Central Oklahoma
Car Model: 75valiant custom
If you put a thin copper wire where the threads are, it'll be strong as new. Like a heli-coil.


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