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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 1:03 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:29 pm
Posts: 118
Location: Finland
Car Model:
75valiant wrote:

i did the above procedure, using moog parts, and the instructions said to torque to 125 ft/lbs. it also said to discard the control arm if it would not hold to 125. well, i got to 120 fine, and when i tried that last push, it spun. i was in a hurry to take a road trip (already made reservations), so i made an emergency purchase, which was successful, except for all the money i wasted on new bushings and ball joints.

if this happens to you, here is a little trick you case use to make your control arm useable. put a coil of bare copper wire where the threads are. it doesn't have to be very heavy wire. when you thread the ball joint into the stripped threads, it will hold. this would have saved me hundreds of dollars. live and learn.



I hope it doesn't come to it, but thanks for the tip. Wouldn't surprise me, if it did...

A little update: I did manage to get out the upper control arm. It was's pretty stuck in the steering knuckle, but as I didn't have to worry about the seal, I got it. Now I'm waiting for the bushings and camber/caster bolts. It seems FedEx has lost them.

I'd like to take this opportunity to change the steering knuckle also (something strange about it, long story) now that the upper control arm is out anyway. The FSM says you need to remove the tension from the torsion bar, before proceeding to remove the steering knuckle. The torsion bar bolt won't budge however. If I try any harder, I fear I will either break my tools or break the bolt. I'll try again tomorrow. I put some brake fluid on it today, read somewhere that it worked wonders on stock bolts...

Baby steps, baby steps...
Maurice


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