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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2018 7:58 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sun Mar 26, 2017 7:33 pm
Posts: 18
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I converted the front and rear end of my 65 dart to except 5x4.5 wheels. The front was the easy part. I just took the spindles from a 76 duster, they bolted right on, no problem. The next hurdle was to find a set of wheels that would work with my new bolt pattern. After much research I found that 87 to 96 jeep wrangler wheels will work just fine. The center bore is 2 13/16 in, which fit the 76 spindles perfectly. The next obstacle to over come was the rear end. I had to get 1" thick wheel spacers with a 5x4.5 bolt pattern, at first, all seemed perfect until I noticed that it was going to be lug centric not hub centric. I looked for replacement axles that were hub centric with 2 13/16 bore... no luck. So I had a local machine shop to make me 2 sleeves out of 4140 stock. The inside bore was 2.32, the outside was 2 13/16 "same as the wheels" and length was 1 3/4 in. I had the break drums bored out to 2 7/8 in to make sure the sleeve would fit against axle face snuggly, I then bolted on the spacer then the wheels. I slid the sleeves into the wheel bore until it contacted the axle face. They fit perfectly. I mig welded the inside of the axle flange to the sleeve. All of this worked perfectly. I feel much safer now that I know the rear wheels are holding the weight... not just the lugs. The sleeves cost me 50 bucks. For anyone wanting to convert to 15 in wheels for their abody darts, this is the way to go. :D

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No car info 3/27/2017 Guido


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 6:45 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber
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Joined: Sun Apr 30, 2006 10:08 pm
Posts: 68
Location: Delaware
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Do you have pictures? (of the adapter set up and your car with the Wrangler wheels)


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 9:49 pm 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 1842
Location: Everett, WA
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Seems to me, it would have been easier to just change out the rear axle to one with the correct bolt pattern.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 10:05 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2011 10:04 am
Posts: 207
Location: Upper So. CA
Car Model*: '65 Valiant 170 T5
Mine came to me with a Ford Ranger 7.5" rear axle under it. These are 5 X 4.5 from the start. Appropriate size, weight, & strength for a \, and came with 3.73 gearing which works well with the T5. Only downside is that it a a little bit wider than the OEM axle.

I abhor bolt-on aluminum wheel spacers. They are an accident looking for a place to happen, and no amount of torquing the inner lug nuts and checking their torque is going to change that.

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 3:38 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 2:49 pm
Posts: 638
Location: Houston, TX
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The materials engineer in me cringes at the thought of MIG welding 4140, but I'm guessing it wasn't overly hardened. I'm curious; was it cold-drawn, hot-drawn, annealed? If you're a skilled welder and didn't leave any voids (or heat it so much that it cracked when cooling), then it's just a matter of the operating stresses. The wonderful thing about steel in a rotating system is that steel has an "endurance limit." As long as the alternating stresses are below about half the yield strength (and it doesn't have intrinsic flaws), it will basically never fatigue. Since the sleeves are just there for centering and the lugs hold all the weight, you'll probably never have an issue even if you get a wheel out of balance.

Also, I have absolutely zero room to throw stones because I've been using billet aluminum wheel spacers on my endurance road racer for years now with no hub-centering. Also I run 5x115mm late Chrysler/Mercedes wheels on 5x4.5" lugs. Maybe I'm just lucky.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 9:39 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2011 10:04 am
Posts: 207
Location: Upper So. CA
Car Model*: '65 Valiant 170 T5
Just to be clear I've no issue with shim type spacers. (EDIT: assuming the studs are long enough) It is the bolt-ons that I see as a fatigue failure looking for a place to happen.

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Thom



Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite


Last edited by ntsqd on Mon Sep 10, 2018 12:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2018 8:22 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sun Mar 26, 2017 7:33 pm
Posts: 18
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kesteb wrote:
Seems to me, it would have been easier to just change out the rear axle to one with the correct bolt pattern.

I agree but I could not find a axle replacement that was 5 x 4.5 that worked with the 7.25 rear end they were all 4x5

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No car info 3/27/2017 Guido


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 12:25 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2011 10:04 am
Posts: 207
Location: Upper So. CA
Car Model*: '65 Valiant 170 T5
Change the whole axle assembly. I got mine already done, but it is a Ranger 7.5" axle assembly. Came with 3.73 gearing and decently sized drum brakes from a JY and I understand it was under $200.

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Thom



Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 10:27 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 11532
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model*: 68 Valiant
I've got 2 big bolt 7-1/4 rears sitiing on the floor in my shop that I have not been able to give away.

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