Hey guys thanks in advance for all your advice and help. I am in the midst of the Scarebird conversion of my 9in drums in the front to the 10in discs. In addition I am also upgrading the master cyl to the dual well design. I am attempting to hook into my existing lines and distribution block, and add in a new adj proportioning valve for the rear (drums) per their instructions.

I have bought a bunch of fittings, adapters and a new 40 in stretch of 3/16 line with the fittings already installed on it.
My question: Is there any issue with me running the new 3/16 line from the new MC rear port, to the new proportioning valve?
The original 1/4in line is going to be connected to the new MC front port and keep the same connection to the distribution block, and also I am going to plug the rear connection on the old distribution block.

Or do I need to run new 1/4 line to the new adj proportioning valve? or does it matter.

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

Running a new 3/16" line for the rear brakes from the master cylinder to your prop valve is good.

You should probably also run a new 1/4" line from the master cylinder to the original distribution block, because you'll have to bend the hell out of the old line to connect it to the side port of the new master. That's some very old steel tubing to be trusting with a bunch of new bends.

Also keep in mind that the ports are reversed on the master cylinder. The small front reservoir goes to the rear brakes, and the larger rear reservoir goes to the front brakes.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Thanks for the help. Yes maybe a new 1/4 line is smart. Let me also ask, I had to buy a few adapter from AGS to come out of the new MC. The outs are different sizes, one is 9/16-20, the other is 1/2 -20. So I bought those adapters and when I thread them in they feel slightly loose, with no resistance right up until it bottoms out and hits the flared part inside the MC. Is that right? Or should it feel tighter prior to it hitting that flared bit?

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

I guess it depends on how loose you mean. If you're using a rebuilt MC from a dodgy manufacturer, I suppose the threads in the casting could be worn out.

I believe 1/2-20 and 9/16-20 are correct. All these are inverted flare fittings, which have straight threads and only seal on the flared part. So they shouldn't get significantly tighter as they thread in (like a tapered-thread NPT fitting would).

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

ok I have decided to roll my own. I am sending back all the adapters I bought, and bought a 25 ft roll of 3/16 line which came with a bunch of fittings. I also bought one of these small hand-held tube benders, looks like a large bottle opener.

I also bought one of these inexpensive flaring tool kit for $25. wish me luck

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

I may be a little late here but if you want easy to bend and flare tubing you should get Cunifer brake lines. By easy I mean, I bent all of the lines for my whole truck when I restored it without a bender at all. Yes it cost a little more but it is well worth it.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

If you have trouble finding the correct master cylinder fittings, use this link.
http://store.fedhillusa.com/
http://store.fedhillusa.com/a153.aspx
http://store.fedhillusa.com/a163.aspx

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Yes that is where I got mine also! Thanks Charlie!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6