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 Post subject: Sway bars for a driver
PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2019 1:47 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:52 am
Posts: 32
Location: Santa Clara ca ..
Car Model*: 1970 Dart Swinger ( mod top clone ) Slanty w/auto
Hi all

Looking for input or to hear what people are running

here my set up
70 swinger with slant
.89 tbars " 340 or BB "
front 73 disk swap with 2" drop spindels
stock 70 non tabed LCA
Rear is a 8.25

What Sway bar for the front ? ??
PST , Addco , Hellwig , Hotchkins

And is a rear sway bar really worth it for street driving car ?

Thanks ....


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 5:55 am 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 13535
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model*:
Cool. Rear sway almost never needed for best handling, unless you like a tailhappy car or do a lot of autoX.

I used a Hellwig tubular on my 68 Dart recently and it was pretty decent install. Addco will take a lot of work to make it durable and align the mounts. My guess is the Hotchkis is the best, but also most expensive. Firmfeel.com also has excellent sway bars.

Lou

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"You mean you still have a Slant 6 in that thing?"


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 12:08 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:52 am
Posts: 32
Location: Santa Clara ca ..
Car Model*: 1970 Dart Swinger ( mod top clone ) Slanty w/auto
i can pass on the rear bar for sure ...
I just want to reinvent the wheel when it comes to putting in a front bar based on the fact my car did not have a sway bar


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 2:24 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2015 6:19 pm
Posts: 264
Location: Florida
Car Model*:
ramcuda wrote:
Hi all

Looking for input or to hear what people are running

here my set up
70 swinger with slant
.89 tbars " 340 or BB "
front 73 disk swap with 2" drop spindels
stock 70 non tabed LCA
Rear is a 8.25

What Sway bar for the front ? ??
PST , Addco , Hellwig , Hotchkins

And is a rear sway bar really worth it for street driving car ?

Thanks ....


You left out one crucial detail which covers a lot of ground, pun intended, what is your wheel/tire package, or what might it be in the future. That answer controls nearly every decision above already made or you will make. And its THE most critical decision from any performance handing consideration. A common pertinent saying here, "everything effects everything else".

Moving on:

1. You can never have too much tire
2. The Dropped spindles have already messed with your suspension kinematics negatively, but likely improved the stance/look, a typical compromise for a "street" car
3. IMO anything under 1" TB is a waste of time, nobody, with the correct shock, has ever stated they went to big, and more often then not, wondered if they went big enough, AFTER upsizing, you have been warned. :mrgreen:
4. A fiberglass lift hood, moving the battery to trunk, for starts, will do wonders relatively cheaply for better "balance"
5. Do NOT install KYB shocks, other quality name shocks are a plus
6. Install TB's first, later install Swaybar, its a much better learning process
7. The differences between swaybar makers is not performance in your application
8. A rear swaybar's primary function is to tune out other bad suspension choices elsewhere, so choose wisely, and forget the rear bar
9. Most mis understood front sway thinking does not understand, a front swaybar gives the effect of allowing the front end to roll less, by LIFTING the inside corner tire, AND transferring that loss of spring to to the OUTSIDE tire. That is why front swaybars normally REDUCE front axle total grip (push/understeer), because one tire (outside) is almost overloaded, while inside tire is underloaded. However if your roll is so drastic from wide tires combined with say soft TB's, grip might be improved by less roll, up to a point.
10. Don't get me started on LCA gusset reinforcements, 11/16" TR's, KYB's, etc :lol:


Last edited by jcc on Mon Jun 03, 2019 11:34 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 3:19 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6127
Location: So California
Car Model*: 64 Plymouth Valiant
I went with Addco, primarily because they were cheapest.....

1 1/8 front 3/4 rear (there's an available 7/8, don't get it. It's for a V8 (to balance the heavier weight)

I got the poly bushings so the bars would be more effective.

The rear mounting is ok, but you need to fix the front mount (if the mounting is the same as a 64).


I actually put the bars on before I changed out the decades old bias tires that were on the car when I got it.

I was getting nice balanced 4 wheel drifts with the old bias tires without under or over steer. So I would say the Addco bars balanced out the handling.


Here's the mounting fix for the front: (see last picture below)

Image

If img isn't working try: https://photobucket.com/gallery/user/em ... wZw==?ref=

Here's how it's mounted. Notice the front bar brackets aren't attached to k-member at top, thus the fix.

Image

If img isn't working try:
https://photobucket.com/gallery/user/em ... anBn/?ref=

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 3:39 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7306
Location: SW Washington
Car Model*: 1954 Dodge C1-B8
I would do big torsion bars and good shocks before I would buy a sway bar unless comfort is the overriding concern. I surprised a few people with the flat handling and grip of my '67 Valiant with 1.04" torsion bars, QA1 adjustable shocks and 17x8" wheels with 235/45R17 tires. I had 17x9" wheels and 255/40R17 rear tires. The car was not jarring or objectionable to ride in at all. It felt like a modern car in ride quality which then made the steering feel archaic.

A friend has a '75 Duster race car. With all the spring rate in the back it oversteers a little with NO rear sway bar. Again, do springs then sway bars.

What is your damper (shock absorber) budget?

_________________
Joshua


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