Got the lower
ball joint off on my 63 valiant but am wresting with the upper ball joint. My tool that worked on other cars won't do the trick on this one.. the manual says two different special tools are required for this job.. Really? Im hoping someone who has done this job will give me some tips.. thanks

There are 3? Different sized Mopar ball joint sockets.

For our cars there are the small and large ones.

Your '63 if it's stock will use the small one.

Some more documentation...
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/th ... es.340816/

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Is you UCA still on the car? Have you applied heat to the UCA? They are usually tight!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

1) Leave the upper control arm mounted to the car, or re mount it if you have removed it.
2) Get the right size socket to fit the ball joint
3) Attach the socket to a three foot breaker bar, slip a 2 to 3 foot length of pipe over the breaker bar to increase leverage and have at it.

If the upper ball joints were serviced previously and got stripped out, a PO may have welded them in.
So if they still don’t budge, check for that.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

I'm confused... Is the upper ball meant to be pressed out (which I assumed) or threaded out?? Sorry have'nt worked on mopars before.....

Threaded out, That is why you need the socket.

See the ridges - those are the threads - yours will be similar.


unless it had been welded as mentioned in previous posts, it will thread out.

I never use a big bar or heat, although those can be helpful, a good Air or electric impact wrench will be fine if the upper arm is still installed on the car or not.


Best of luck!

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks!

If you haven't already done it: be careful to not pull the whole car off the jack stands or hoist!

Also, as said- correct socket, 4 foot cheater pipe , lots of heat, 2 guys pulling on the pipe, and a tap hammer to break it loose- worked for me . Subbed 3 kids for 2 guys though.

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

Besides the other advice given above, be careful to get the new one in square & "on thread", which can be a challenge on some. Sometimes You're screwed by a previous poor install, & it can be a real challenge to impossible to get it perfectly square. I've used heat & a powerful impact gun on most, but some previously crossthreaded ones will take the pipe for sure.