I have in 84 Dodge 150 pickup with a slant 6. It ran great until it was parked and sat for two years now it won't run. I flushed the fuel system, changed the fuel filter, mechanical fuel pump and rebuilt the carburetor. I also replace the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil and both pickup coils in the distributor. When I check the coil for spark I do get Spark but it's a weak orange Spark. When I take out the number one plug and ground it and check for spark there is none. There are times I can get it started but it only runs for about 5 Seconds then dies.
I am not a mechanic so I'm at a loss here.

"I am not a mechanic so I'm at a loss here"

Start by not trusting your new parts?

One non mechanic approach.......Find a friend with a running slant and borrow an ignition component......one at a time.

Replace yours and see if the spark at the plug improves.

The other angle is pretend that there just isn't enough juice coming to the coil when you are cranking.
So put a jumper wire direct from the battery to the coil terminal and see if it starts.

People can help if they know the results of that effort perhaps.

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

Make sure coil polarity is wired correctly. (-) goes to distributor, (+) to ballast resister.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

You said, 'both' pickup coils in the distributor. I am guessing that you have a Lean Burn setup, with the ignition controller on the side of the air cleaner. If so, it is not unlikely that this has failed. Also, you need to make certain you haven't switched the two pickup leads between the two pickup coils. They can't be swapped as one is for start, the other is for run (it has to do with running lean).
Jus' sayin'
-Matt

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

So I ran a jump wire from the battery to the positive side of the coil which gave me Spark I don't know exactly what that means because there's power going to the existing wire I guess it's not enough. So now it'll start but will only run for about 5 Seconds at a time and only when I put gas in the carburetor. I'm getting gas to the carburetor I've taken the line off to check. The fuel system's been flashed, new fuel pump, new filter and rebuilt carburetor. I've taken the carburetor apart to see if it's getting fuel in the float chamber and it is. So I'm not sure it seems like it's not getting gas to the cylinders.

Check the float level and compare to specs.......both at an idle and when it is stopped.

So the jumper wire you ran from the battery to the coil is likely almost 13 volts.
Check the voltage at the coil with the key on (and no jumper wire).
Then get a helper and check the voltage to the coil with the starter cranking.

You are looking to see if there is a low voltage or no voltage when the starter is cranking to troubleshoot.
If you can get a hold of a wiring diagram look to see if there are two circuits from the ignition switch......one for when the key is in the run position and another for when the key is in the crank position.

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

When you rebuilt the carb, did you use an air hose/compressed air to clean out the passages in the carb body and base plate?
Some of the smaller passages if clogged can keep the correct fuel circuit from working when needed.

Since this is an ESC setup, is the carburetor a feed back carburetor?