I have a red block that is supposedly from a Clark Cortez RV. Would it have any of these desireable parts, and how would I confirm what I have is actually the better valves, etc?

Yes, I am aware of that...



I remember you mentioning the denomination, but not the application. Interesting.



This information admittedly came from my rebuilder. Perhaps he had another marine engine in mind when he said this, but it would make perfect sense to me. Corrosion prevention in a marine engine, particularly one used in saltwater, would be much more of a design consideration than one used on land. The pistons, who knows; mine are Federal Mogul and he got those pistons by APPLICATION. Maybe the application is a fabrication, but I know they fit like a glove, they are forged and I think theyre the cats ass.







This is more semantics than anything else. Flow and volume may not be exactly the same thing, but they are close enough. Most hydraulic pumps are specced in gallons per minute flow rating at a certain RPM rather than "volume" or "displacement" per revolution though that is sometimes included on the spec sheet. What an engineer really is concerned with are the flow ratings at X RPM and X pressure. My understanding is that the high "whatever" pump was in concert with the looser main bearing tolerances (it was small, say two thou rather than one) so that more oil could pass through the bearings and keep things cooler. I don't know what book he got his specs from, but he showed it to me, to help me understand this relationship between the big pump and the loose bearings (I think at the time I was thinking the looser clearances were for heat expansion? I know better now) In any case, my rotating assembly is dynamically balanced, I have the 1" Melling with a hardened gear (thanks to DD for the specs, we got someone local to case harden it to your specs) and two thou on the mains. The slugs are forged and the rods are Glyptalled, rather than copper plated. I missed out on the rotacaps, valves and roller chain, but I at least have nickel seats in there, and I doubt I made things any worse. The way I take care of it it'll outlive me.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Check out Mopars Golden Commando color.
They used this color in the early 60's.
It's a cool gold color.

I found this link recently that I thought might help people

MyMopar.com Engine Paint Guide

MJ

Errors...lots and lots of errors...

Indeed....

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well ah shucks! Mine is red

MJ

Well I appreciate the attempt, nonetheless, NewLancerMan.

Paint the big L next to my engine too please

BLUE!! is a ´71 engines, with red manifolds

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Mopar Muscle is well defend by Slant Six!

Valiant Duster 1971

Pray tell Dan - what updates?

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

Just to add my 2 cents to this old post, In 1981 I worked in a fleet service dept of MT&T (telco) and most of the Vans bought that year were Dodges, powered by slant sixes. All were hydro motors and the first shipments had blue motors, later (March?) were painted black.

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Blair Furlotte
1979 Dodge Aspen 225 "Super Six" 3-speed
Original owner

Holy thread resurrection, Batman!

But as long as we're here anyway, I'd like to pose a semi-related question. I have one of the yellow engines (well, it used to be yellow, it's sorta rust-colored now...) from a '67 Dodge van, so as I understand it, that should have the shot-peened crank in it, correct? Is there any difference in that crank other than metallurgy-wise, i.e., will it fit in any other 225 block I can come up with? I have a late-style 225 block (I assume it's just the light duty version - it's blue) waiting to be assembled, and I was planning on using the crank from that '67 engine, but is there any reason it shouldn't fit?

If it's a 225-2 (heavy-duty), then yes. If it's a 225-1 (standard-duty) then no.



Correct — it would fit in any RG block made through mid-1976 when they switched from forged steel to cast iron cranks. It will not fit in place of a cast crank.



Engine colour is not a very reliable indication of build configuration...especially so many years after they were built!

Keep in mind, any crankshaft can be shot peened by any machine shop equipped to do so. For most of us, the only advantage in doing so is whatever satisfaction comes from saying "Me, I've got a shot-peened crankshaft in my engine".

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

See here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.