SlantSixDan,
Thank you sir, you are a good resource.
I will have to save pennies to get those books...

I have had 'hot start' problems too, stalled in an intersection... (embarrassing!) but, she finally started again.
I observed the fuel filter, and you're right, but, is the fuel supposed to bubble? Is that air in the line, or boiling.
Is your recommendation, to Do the mod anyway?

One last question then... where the hell would you get a '79 fuel pump? I hate buying a junk yard dog, and I'm told modern fuels and older cars don't actually get along too well... (the parts guy at the auto parts store recommended the electric conversion... )

Thanks again sir.
'piper

The stock slant six mechanical fuel pump is still available at any auto parts store. Chrysler put this engine in trucks through the late 80s, and I don't think the pump design changed.

For the record, I have my fuel line run the same way as a few people have mentioned in this thread already. I just cut the hard line coming out of the fuel pump a few inches long with a tubing cutter, bubble flared it, pointed it straight up, and ran a rubber line over the manifold to the carb with a metal fuel filter in the middle. The filter is zip-tied to the valve cover where the heater hose hold-down clamp used to be.

_________________
Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Thanks,
I will try talking to his boss... or, try the 'other guy'.
(I despise buying anything online, if I can't put my hands on it first, but I might have to get over it...

I have some other questions about choke, but I won't corrupt this thread...
'piper

bagpiper:


To be clear fuel filter is located between pump and carburetor, right?

Several ways "air bubbles" can be seen in fuel filter when running: fuel pump has a hole on suction side; pin holes in fuel line between pump and tank which would break suction allowing fuel to return to tank, and cause hard starts; boiling fuel, once needle valve in fuel bowl opens to refill, line pressure drops and causes hot fuel to boil**; and bad pump with bad foot valve, and or compromised diaphragm which could allow raw fuel to enter oil pan which is not good for baring’s.

Pull motor oil dip stick, sniff for strong gasoline odor, if found, replace fuel pump, and change oil before any more damage can be done to engine.

**Pressurized fuel resists boiling until pressure is relived at which point some of it goes through a phase change, or vaporizes causing bubbles.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Can you use 3/8" fuel injection hose instead of 5/16"?

I friend has a length left over from his project and I can get it for FREE.

So before I purchase all of the fitting I want to make sure the smaller hose will work.

Thanks in advance

_________________
1975 Dodge D100 Utiline
Slant 6, Super Six, Weber 38, 727
Repair work in progress.

Probably, it will be a sloppy loos fit requiring a small flare to swell 5/16" metal tubing where said hose slides on with maybe two clamps being necessary for a tight seal. One does not want any leaking metal to flexible hose connections over, in, and around a hot engine with a chance of high voltage sparks handy.

I would get the correct size hose.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.

82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp

07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Bad idea....just get the correct size hose,its dangerous. You may save a few bucks,but it won't help when you are roasting yourself in your burning car.

I am getting new fittings.
Cant I just change the one from the pump from 5/16" to 3/8"?

My question was more along the line of if the larger hose would have any negative effect

_________________
1975 Dodge D100 Utiline
Slant 6, Super Six, Weber 38, 727
Repair work in progress.

You would have to get the correct 3/8" fittings for both the fuel pump and carb ends....the 3/8" hose isn't really an issue,it's not going to do you any favours....personally I'd just get the correct size hose. If you have a flaring tool,just cut the fuel line and put a bubble flare on it and slip the right size hose on...all done,no fittings! Make sure you have a lot of airspace between your hose and the exhaust manifolds....it's an unprotected flex hose getting exposed to a lot of heat.....

I am getting ready to do this mod for my 66 d dart . I have the holly 1920 so found the straight fitting. Having trouble finding the 90 version. But I think I just ordered it. Could I have more info on how to install the fitting into the hose and onto the pump/carb? The male threaded section has a small piece of flared tubing that seems to just rattle around? Do I use that or get rid of it? Lastly, if I am to position the Filter vertical then shouldnt I have straight fitting come off the fuel pump, so it is sticking vertical? Lastly no one has fuel line hoses in 5/16. I cant even seem to search for them on the websites like AutoZone, Oreilly, Pep Boy. What am I missing? I did find Pinch type, but I dont want that. help please....

_________________
66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

I just did this mod, while also rebuilding the carb and replacing the gas tank. Few things, the straight piece coming out of carb would not seal and leaked gas. Ended up getting a replacement fitting as the first one had cracks at the flare. I also teflon tapped it, now no leak. wonder how long the teflon will last.

Also now idle speed is too high and doesnt want to drop down. any ideas? I didnt make any changes to the idle screws. Also I did not change the timing.

_________________
66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

Be really careful with teflon tape near fuel fittings. It's really not supposed to be there. Teflon tape or any other kind of thread sealant is for fittings where the thread itself makes the seal. That is not the case in fuel line fittings, where the flare and seat form the seal. If fuel is leaking past the flare/seat junction, you need to find and fix the reason why, not try to stop it getting past the threads.



There's your problem. After a rebuild, all the carburetor adjustments must be done correctly and in sequence, even if they seemed correct before. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yea I plan on doing all of the adjustments. However I am looking at the Instruction sheet from the rebuild kit from Mikes, and it keeps referring to an Index Mark in order to set the fast idle screw. However there is no index mark on my carb.?
I also have the instructions for the carb 1920 which mentions a few things but keeps referring to a DashPot which I do not have. Then I also have the instructions from the Dodge service manual which has other instructions. Any idea which one I should follow?

_________________
66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

Take it to another thread; this is no longer about the fuel line mod.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'm baack. So the 2nd edelmann 721550 is now leaking. I have it pretty damn tight. Any tighter feels like I am gonna break something. Is there a better male inverted 180 out there? the flare fitting on the 721550 just looks too thin to be able to handle much torque. I do have the original tubing that was on there before. I guess I could cut it off right after the connection then attach the hose with a compression fitting? seems sorta lame? any ideas?

_________________
66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6