well y'all didn't have a carburetion thread so i guess this is where this goes

looking to go with a super six intake on my 1960 Savoy with a 225cid

any suggestions on a carb
i was looking at a Weber 32/36 possibly
seems like a pretty good carb

are there any others i might want to check out?


look forward to hearing from y'all

Your thread should be in the engine section.
As for the carb where are you located? BBD , Holley , Your Weber all are good choices.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

yea i was thinking the engine section too. but wasn't sure. so figured here was a safe bet.

i'm outa Stockton, CA

would any one be better in your opinion?

A well tuned Carter BBD is my personal favorite. My next choice would be a good running Holley 2280. These both with work with the factory throttle and kickdown linkages and bolt to the factory intake manifold with no adapters or problems.

Next up would probably be a Holley 2300.

Keep in mind that your stock cam and head are very mild. Going much bigger than a Carter BBD (280 CFM) is really a waste at this point. The weber DGAV/Holley 5200 carb is an interesting compromise on a stock motor, but will require the use of an adapter and some custom linkage fabrication.

Wouldn't a head swap be a prudent upgrade at the same time?

(I'm asuming it's a 1960 225)

i had someone else mention the holley to me is that a progressive or synced carb.
where i'm probably going to get the intake from told me they also had a Carter to go with it. sounds like i may have good reason to go with a Carter then




actually it's a 1968-1972 remanfactured longblock. only one i could find at the time.
there was a serious crack along the block length of the original

the head was still good. so i was thinking of having some work done to it. but from the sounds of it you're not liking my 1960 head. perhaps it's the plug tubes.

i was out recently on an ecursion to the local pull a part yards in my area and could find a single slant six in the place. so use parts in my area seem a little scarce

well i went with a Stromberg WWC carb.

found a couple pretty cheap on ebay gonna Frankenstein one off the other if need be. but they both looked complete if they are gonna rebuild them both keep one as a back up or run double's in the future

I ran a Stromberg for a little while. It was a nice running carb. it was off a 318 or 273. It got the same mileage as a small block BBD.

What's the CFM difference between a super six, and a SB BBD?

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

None, if I remember correctly. There was a version of the BD that was used on either the 360 or the 383 that had a higher flow rate, but you really don't need more than 280 CFM on even a moderately built slant for street use.

Holley 5200s are indeed staged carbs, but they are designed for four cylinder motors. Most Holley 5200s are rated at 280 CFM, the same as the BBD, but they will require some tuning and fiddling to work well on a slant.

For my money I would just find a Holley 2280 and go with that. See if you can't find one of the "Economaster" versions.

The slant six cylinder head was revised in 68 with an improved combustion chamber. In 72 the slant six got hardened valve seats to run unleaded gas, but many people have had no problem running pre-72 heads on unleaded gas for years.

You motor has two drawbacks right now- the weakest factory camshaft offered and the unrevised cylinder head. A cam swap and a switch to the revised head will help, but doing some work on the head before the swap will help even more. Switching the cam and head will make huge improvements even if you leave the one barrel carb in place. Just ask Aggressive Ted about how much fun it can be to drive a well set-up one barrel slant.

the head thats on it i'm guessing is a 1968-72 as well. along with the block.
i bought em together as a long block assembly.

are there casting numbers i should be looking for, for the revised chamber head?


so are you saying i shouldn't do anything to the old head? just get a newer one and work it?

see here and here



If you have the original 1960 head, yes, don't bother spending any money or time with it. If you can confirm you have a post 68 "revised" head, put money and time into it.

You may also wish to peruse this article, this article, and this article.

If the venturi is smaller on the SS carb I would think it would flow less. Butterflies are the same size.

The 1 1/2" BBD was a 383 thing. I don't think they got them on the 360. AFAIK they were Holleys. I have have one of those and it is a heavy piece of junk.

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Correct. Why would there be a difference in CFM if the throttle bore is exactly the same? The super six BBD was 1-1/4" throttle bore right? The latter one for the SB was 1-1/2" if not mistaken, which means more cubic flow.
No because more airflow would draw more fuel so the smaller venturi could actually (lean) out the mixture probably at higher speeds.

_________________
exoJjL

"No because more airflow would draw more fuel so the smaller venturi could actually (lean) out the mixture probably at higher speeds."

Less air=richer? Why would it lean it out?

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick