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 Post subject: Electric intake heating
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 2:30 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:25 pm
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Location: Waco, TX
Car Model: '69 D100
This may be a dumb question... I've gathered that a heated intake is just superior to unheated regardless of weather. The question of intake heat + headers seems to come up a lot and the proposed solution is typically coolant heat or welding a bung to the headers. Has an electric heating element like those used on diesel engines ever been attempted? It seems like an elegant solution to me but I could be missing something entirely.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 3:00 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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I think the need for heat is to warm up the intake manifold so fuel does not condense on the manifold walls. Heating the air is counterproductive to performance. Those diesel intake heaters are also built for short time duty - like less than a minute. It would burn out quickly if run continuously.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 3:10 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2015 2:39 pm
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It would take a lot of amperage to have any effect. You would need something like a heating element from a 12v water heater.

Fabricating a coolant based hot box would be a better plan.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 4:50 pm 
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Supercharged
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Exhaust heat is fast and readily available. That's why most every light duty vehicle in existence with a carburetor uses exhaust heat on the intake manifold. Don't yell at me about Ford FE engines, I did say most. The FE engine used water heat which is slower, but much better than nothing and is often an easier retrofit.

Electric intake heat is expensive. Have you ever owned a diesel with an intake heater? I've owned 2. A 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins and a 1st. You can watch the intake heater drag down the battery voltage during warm up and this is with a 100+ amp alternator.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 5:54 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:25 pm
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Location: Waco, TX
Car Model: '69 D100
Ha, I know next to nothing about Fords so no correction was forthcoming.

Didn't realize heating elements took so much draw. It does make more sense to use exhaust heat that is being otherwise wasted in that case. Have yet to see any headers adapted to the purpose, I wonder how it could be done...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 6:46 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
There is a reason that the electrid heating grid on heated rear windows has a 20 amp fuse. Think about that and then remember that most slant sixes were built with alternators that put out 35-45 amps.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 8:53 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:25 pm
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Location: Waco, TX
Car Model: '69 D100
Wow, electric is not ideal then.

I like this kind of solution maybe with Dual Dutra Duals...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 11:01 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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If you're willing to get rid of the headers, then why not do a front Dutra with a modified stock exhaust for the rear. That way you can keep the factory hot box and have dual exhaust.

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1976 Feather Duster /6 4sp
1984 W100 318 727 np241
1972 'Cuda 340 4sp
1985 D250 360 46RH


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 1:06 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:25 pm
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Location: Waco, TX
Car Model: '69 D100
afastcuda1970 wrote:
If you're willing to get rid of the headers, then why not do a front Dutra with a modified stock exhaust for the rear. That way you can keep the factory hot box and have dual exhaust.

I would... if I had headers to get rid of :roll:. Just curious about the various ways to get heat to the manifold. I do like the idea of a custom hot box, has potential to work with more exotic intakes than just the OEM/offy models

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