A few questions about the acid cleaning process of the water jackets in the block..

How much acid is needed? One gal?
Is it mixed / cut with water?

What do you use to plug the small / medium water ports on the top of the deck?

Thanks,

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

If just doing the block, I use a plastic plate over the water pump opening and then level the block, with the deck surface up.
Steel freeze plugs need to be removed and replaced with rubber.
You will have to resurface the deck once the etching is finished.

Remember, add acid to water, never water to acid so save some acid and dilute into water and then carefully use that to top-off your "standing block", as it bubbles away... for days.
Rubber gloves, safety glasses, old cloths and a well ventilated area are all "in order" when doing this.
Breathing the fumes and getting rid of the used acid are the hassles with this process.
DD

I bought a gallon of muriatic acid and plenty of rubber stoppers and rubber freeze plugs.

Thanks for your help doc.

Will a clean up pass of .001-.002 work for the top of the block after this process?

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Keep in mind acid is not the only stuff that will take away large amounts of rust. There is Evapo-Rust, and there is also molasses (pics and info at the link). Both of those are a whole lot safer and easier to handle than acid, and molasses has the added advantages of being very inexpensive and very easy to dispose of without making a toxic waste dump of your local vicinity.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

a gallon of molasses at Tractor Supply for $10.00

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produ ... eAQAvD_BwE

I have a rusty oil pan that needs some attention, I'll give the molasses a try.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Is molasses something you could use in the water jacket (block or head)?

_________________
-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Diluted molasses. See Dan's link above to molasses.

I wonder if doing molasses or Evaporust, then a weak acid wash after that might be the best? I assume the block will be hot tanked at a machine shop first to get grease off? Otherwise, any oil/grease will block acid or whatever from reaching rust beneath it.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Greg may be trying to get it clean enough to use the "Hard Block" in it. Will molasses get it that clean? Or will it leave a residue behind that Hard block won't adhere to?

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

…read the text and view the pictures at the link I posted.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes I am preparing it for Hardblock.

I was unaware of molases or anything else for this kind of process.

It's at the Machine shop checking for cracks and Hot tanking and Getting Lifter stand offs installed.

Then back to me for acid cleaning, HardBlok Fill, Glyptal Coat the insides and then back to Machine Shop with Caps and Honing Plate for Boring, and Line honing, and Main Cap Fitment.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Apparently I'm igorunt: I thought the whole end purpose of "hot tanking" a bare engine block was to clean out the coolant passages, so that further acid cleaning & flushing isn't necessary. I need enlightenment...

_________________
"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

I have had blocks hot tanked that still had lots of junk in the water jackets..

Hot tank process is great for the outside and crankcase cleaning.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I would think the water jacket junk would be rust or non-greasy stuff that is left. The hot tanking or oven baking should remove the grease/oil, which could block the acid/etching of the rust...

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Thx.

_________________
"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

We have cleaned a lot of parts over the years, using many different chemicals and processes...
For being the nasty process it is, the pool acid treatment seems to work the best when it comes to getting the water jackets totally clean, with-out spending a lot of time or money.

We do the "acid soak" right after engine break-down and then send the engine into the shop for their "cleaning" / machining. ( hot tank, baking, "dishwasher" or what-ever they like to use...)
When we pick the parts up, the shop usually asks me: " How did you get the water jackets so clean?"

One other side note, the acid etching can help you find cracks. The acid gets into the cracks, then bleeds-out and leaves stains, if let the block dry completely, after the etching process.
DD