Hello all. Thanks for accepting me. I have bought an 82 d150 and it's been sitting for about 10 yrs. so far I've replaced the charging system, rotar/hub assembly and bearings. The smog pump was froze up so I removed it and all the egr stuff. Someone had converted it to points so I put in a pertronid ignition and coil. The carb was completely shot, stripped screws,leaks, etc. I ordered a reman 1845 Holley from autozone and what I got was the 6145 with all the solinoids. The truck runs much better but has a miss on idle. Has anyone else ran into this.

sounds like you have the lean burn system completely disabled..
if not that needs to go, my '83 had an idle miss that was resolved when
I made the switch to HEI.

another possibility is a sticking valve, from setting.

can you do a compression test?

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Your truck sounds a lot like mine before I did the Lean Burn delete. First stop like DadTruck mentioned is a compression test. If you have a weak cylinder higher RPM will mask it, but at idle it will make itself known. I would start there. The HEI conversion got rid of my misfire problem completely.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

Thanks. I'll do the compression check. I have the Haynes manual and see about the valve adjustment. I think I may have been sold the wrong spark plugs to boot. About to check that now. I'm having real problems getting the right parts. Thanks so much for the replies

No valve adjustment on an '82, it has a hydraulic cam. Plugs should be NGK ur5 or equivalent.

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1976 Feather Duster /6 4sp
1984 W100 318 727 np241
1972 'Cuda 340 4sp
1985 D250 360 46RH

A 1982 may or may not have had a “lean burn” system when new. The fact someone installed a points ugnition does not answer the question of whether the truck was built with a lean burn system. I once bought a 1978 Dodge van that a previous owner had installed a points ignition system in “to get it running.” The original ignition did not work because the main fusible link had blown but the previous owner did not know how to troubleshoot electrical problems and only knew how to install a stand alone points system.

Solenoids on the carb do not automatically make it a computer controlled lean burn carb. There were idle stop solenoids and primitive throttle position sensors that were fitted to non-computer controlled carburetors. The key provisions that would make the carb a lean burn carb are wires going inside the float bowl to the stepper motors that controlled the mixture and a vacuum nipple for the spark advance that provides full manifold vaccuum at all times rather than ported vacuum for a distributor.

A true lean burn carb will not function properly without a computer to control it. Your idle problems could be caused by doing this. At this late date it is hard to find a good carb. I recommend you shop for 1945 carbs from the 70s that are much less likely to be computer controlled. Try a new-old-stock parts supplier like Old Car Parts Northwest or a new parts vendor like www.Rockauto.com

Pertronix is an ok ignition system. I used it once in the past with good results. However, the HEI system is much better and I recommend you do that upgrade.

Whatever you do, you should go over the vacuum hoses and all possible points of vacuum hose connection and check for leaks. It sounds like the ignition and vacuum/carburetion systems in that truck have been thoroughly molested. You need to get a factory service manual for your specific year of truck and go over the engine bay wiring and the engine vacuum lines and make sure everything that should be connnected is still connected.

I have went through every vacuum line I can find and fixed many leaks. I'm down to just the advance and pvc valve. My truck was equipped with the box on the air cleaner labeled electronic spark control. I ordered a Holley model 1945 and what I reviewed was the model 6145. The best I can tell, this is the same model that came on the truck. The miss is barely there but still needs something. I'm pretty sure I have to much vacuum the the advance as the original system had a canister on the module and the distributor and now I have it plugged in straight to the carb. I picked up a slight ping on heavy acceleration. I thought about regarding the timing as little as possible but for the life of me I can't get a wrench or socket on the hold down bolt. The wires and clip on the distributor are in the way.

OK- so the truck did have a lean burn system, but lean burn systems came in several varieties. Some controlled only the carb, come controlled only the ignition, some controlled both. If the carb you got is definitely a 6145, then it does not have the correct vacuum supply for a non-lean burn ignition system. Using a 6145 with a standard ignition system distributor will cause timing problems. You would be better off to cap the vacuum fitting for thge distributor on the carb and run without vacum advance and save up and get the correct carburetor. Disconnect the vacuum advance hose from the carb, caop the fitting, and set your base timing like that. Do not reconect the hose.

The PCV valve is easy. It is the big fitting on the base of the carb.

Thanks. Unplugging the vacuum advance was my next step. I ordered a rebuilt 1945 and got a 6145. Anyway, I'm stuck with it for now. I unplugged the idle solinoid and the solinoid that limits the gas to the main jets and took the spring and rod out and then put the solinoid back in to prevent vacuum leak. It's a little sluggish at about 80mph but I'm getting there. I'll check the plugs and may change the jets. The screw that hols the bottom of the choke rod assembly to the manifold also snap off the instant I tried to take it out when I was pulling the old carb. So now I have to also figure out a manual choke. It's getting there but it's been 3 steps forward and 2 steps back. I really appreciate all the advice

You guys don't know how much I appreciate all the help. I'll have to make do with the carb I have for now. I'm pretty mad about being delivered the wrong carb from autosone. I've had nothing but problems getting the right parts from every supplier here(Jonesboro,AR btw). I need to replace the exhaust system also. Does anyone have any suggestions on a good muffler? I found a trush that's supposed to be quite with a better flow than stock. I put a k&n air filter in the stock housing and removed the esc box and got a nice little open face slot for a little extra air flow. Also does anyone have a carb model 1845 for sale?

Part of the issue is that they are just looking through the catalog that is programmed by desk sitters, there aren't many old knowledgeable people
behind the counter either with hands on experience... If you are "rolling back" the options on your truck, YOU have to reset the parameters of your
parts request (i.e. you want a Holley 1945 that is not feed back and not for use with the ESC... you tell them you have a 1978 Dodge D150... not a post 1981 vehicle...
if the engine has been swapped out for a pre-1975 model... to get the correct spark plugs you need to either give them the specific spark plug number from a 1974,
or tell them you have a 1974 Dodge Dart with a 225).

, be firm but fair, tell AZ they sent you the wrong carb and you ether want the right carb or your money back,
should make no difference if you installed it, as you did not realize it was the wrong carb until it was installed, and it does not run right.
because it does not run right they should either refund your $ or swap out the carb for the one you want.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

To be honest, I really don't want to have to deal with them again. Me and the wife drove it out to eat tonight and it runs much better since I adjusted the idle mixture screw and took the rod out of the other solinoid that limits the gas flow. I just need to figure out how to limit the vacuum to the advance and I think it'll be good. I need to check every port on the carb for the lowest pressure maybe? In the manual it's called an electric feed back carb I think

if the vacuum can on the distributor has a hex shape to the can, the amount of vacuum that starts the vacuum advance action can be adjusted. Insert a small allen (I think it is 3/32) in to the piping connection that the vacuum hose plugs on to.
Again IIRC, turn to the right increases the amount of vacuum required to activate the advance, turn to the left decreases the amount of vacuum required to activate. There are also different cans available the have different total advance allowance built in to them.

What I did to determine what advance I was getting at various vacuum levels was:
1) disconnect the vacuum line at the distributor and plug it
2) set up a timing light on the motor and observe and record the existing advance setting
3) attach a hand vacuum pump with a built in vacuum gauge to the distributor
4) start the motor, apply vacuum with the hand pump and using the timing light observe the change in ignition advance at various vacuum levels.
5) Using the allen wrench adjust the distributor vacuum setting start point, adjust and retest to get the desired vacuum ignition advance.

Harbor freight has a hand vacuum pump intended for brake line bleeding that works well for this purpose.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Thanks. The can for the advance is round. I'll look at what the stock vacuum is supposed to be and figure out what can I need. The truck is running so much better! I need to get the wrench to get to the hold down bolt for the distributor and get the base timing right and go from there. I'll do that tomorrow while my buddy put the stereo in. Thanks so much