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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 5:38 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 6:51 pm
Posts: 47
Car Model*: 1962 Dodge Lancer
The good news is that I get to learn more. The bad news....well you tell me.....

Here is the first peak:

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 5:42 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 6:51 pm
Posts: 47
Car Model*: 1962 Dodge Lancer
Here's what they look like, before and after cleaned up a little.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 6:08 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 6:51 pm
Posts: 47
Car Model*: 1962 Dodge Lancer
Is it salvageable? I am going to have to take this thing out of the care aren't I?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 6:13 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 5685
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model*: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
Is it salvageable?


Pretty sure that is a negative!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 6:18 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6005
Location: So California
Car Model*: 64 Plymouth Valiant
I would think some aluminum welding could build that up.

Then machine it down.

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 6:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Yes, the engine definitely has got to come out of the car and be taken all the way apart. No, "stop leak" would not have stood a fraction of a prayer of addressing this!

As for the corrosion damage: Oof. That's pretty ugly. Doctor Dodge (on here) would be the authority on whether this can realistically be fixed; my advice here is just a semi-educated guess: I would probably want to try a cold repair (Belzona) rather than a hot repair (welding) because localised heat will warp stuff.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 6:52 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 6:51 pm
Posts: 47
Car Model*: 1962 Dodge Lancer
anyone have an extra block they want to see live again?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 6:54 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 6:05 pm
Posts: 360
Location: Desoto Texas
Car Model*: 1962 Dodge 770 Lancer Station Wagon
Hey 62Alumblock, sorry to hear about your issues. Looking at the pictures I see an early head also. The numbers cast between the valve cover and the intake flange are one of the earlier casting sign. So that's good for head sealing. Make sure you plane it .010 or so to make sure you will get a good seal. Of course your block top deck will need to be checked as well.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:54 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 6:51 pm
Posts: 47
Car Model*: 1962 Dodge Lancer
Thanks for everyone's input. I am going to continue digging in to this thing. I have the mechanics manual for the car, so will just follow those directions as far as removal goes. I would like to ask if there any helpful hints to know?

I am hoping I can rent a cherry picker and lift the thing out. Take off the hood? Is there any trick to getting it apart from the transmission? Anything I should definitely not do? Any tips or tricks or

Or, on the other hand....a ballpark estimate of what might I expect to pay to get this repaired by a shop?


Worst case scenario is still pretty good.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Worst-case scenario is indeed still pretty good: you have a real nice car you might need to find a replacement engine for. It probably won't be an aluminum one unless you want to shell out big bucks, but.

Yes, remove the hood to remove the engine. Don't forget to scribe marks where the hinges and bolts are so you can get it easily back in alignment on reinstallation.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 11:16 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 6:51 pm
Posts: 47
Car Model*: 1962 Dodge Lancer
I am going to attempt to fix this thing, but also get a back up plan in place.

I found an engine out of a 66 dart. will it fit in my 62 lancer?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 12:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 12894
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Yep, should fit fine. Check the crankshaft rear register for the size that fits your "small hub" torque converter. If your car is a stick, then you will need an input shaft pilot bushing in the end of the crank. 66 and 62 should be the same, but sometimes after 50+ years people have changed things. Otherwise, everything should bolt up with a 66 engine.

Do you know the 66 engine runs well or anything else about its history?

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 1:15 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 6:51 pm
Posts: 47
Car Model*: 1962 Dodge Lancer
The 66 engine is coming from a junkyard, they said it ran when the pulled it. There's a 30 day warranty....


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 1:41 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 4:42 am
Posts: 6290
Location: Brandenburg, KY
Car Model*: Too many to list!! :-)
There may also be some oil pan interference putting the 66 pan into the earlier car...?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Oil pan/pickup interchange is '60-'66; the '66 motor should be fine (though it would be a very wise idea to pull the pan anyhow, clean it out, clean the oil pickup screen/pipe). It will also be a good idea to service the oil pressure relief valve (on both motors, for that matter) to make sure it's doing its job, as described in these two threads: thread 1, thread 2.

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