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 Post subject: headless engine pull Q
PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 6:41 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Head is off and at machine shop.

Cam is showing one lobe worn down by 0.040", so I will need to install a new one.

Block is on its mounts in engine bay missing its head. What is the best way to get hold of that rascal to yank it out without damage to block. Should I use straps slung under front and rear as a sling and lift it, or is there a safe place to chain up to two bolts somehow.

In addition to cam replacement, reseal and gasket this leaking mess, and perhaps a hone & install new rings providing bores are true enough. I can just feel the start of a ring ridge with my finger nail in each cylinder.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 6:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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I often put bolts (~1.5") into two head bolt holes on the block. Pull w/o trans? Use fender washers under the chain contact points to keep the block deck surface pristine. Yes, it will tilt when you raise it. I think I have also put a bolt through the upper or far pass side bellhousing hole on the block and then one of the head bolt holes near the front of the block, for best balance. It's been a while, and I just take a good guess every time... :roll:

Lou

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 6:59 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
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Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Just screw an eye hook in one of the center head bolt holes and use a hoist to lift it out.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 7:47 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I have lots of experience pulling slants without heads since I have done that many times on Dodge vans. In a van, the clearance is so tight between the top of the engine and the firewall that it is pretty much impossible to pull the engine out the front of the van without pulling the head and manifolds first.

I use a chain and put bolts in the frontmost alternator bracket hole and the rearmost engine to trans brace hole. Hook the chain roughly in the middle but a little towards the front of the engine. The motor will want to lay over sideways, but if you hook it right it won't be that bad.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Pull car in garage. Get one large cut off saw. Cut off torsion bars and 4 legs of your K-frame. Raise car with lift. Wires and hose will tear off or use saw. Engine is on floor. :D :D

Sorry I have been feeling a little goofy today! :lol: More than normal. :D

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 2:26 pm 
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Supercharged
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Rick, great idea. That would clear the way to install tubular K member with rack & pinion steering, new disk brakes and gen III Hemi with all the suspension fix'ens... That would perk the old girl up.

Sent from Rick's world.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 4:19 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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This reminds me of pulling an engine/trans from a 72 Dart and there was ONE 12 or 14 gauge wire that we forgot to unhook (starter relay?). It started pulling the whole car up with it!

Lou

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 10:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
At one of the Slant races in years past we pulled a short block with 2 people, a chain, and a 6 foot piece of 2" pipe. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 10:58 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
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Location: Indianapolis
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Quote:
in years past we pulled a short block with 2 people, a chain, and a 6 foot piece of 2" pipe.


ahhh, the enthusiasm of youth,, I remember that :D

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