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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:23 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:52 am
Posts: 34
Location: Santa Clara ca ..
Car Model: 1970 Dart Swinger ( mod top clone ) Slanty w/auto
Hi im looking for feedback on this cam. As i know not a thing about cams ...

Oregon's grind #819
219/219 @ .050", 264/264 adv, .437"/.437" lift, 110 lobe sep,

here is the changes im going to make

Cut the head .60 or what ever makes it to the golden number
Run the Factory super six set up
Durta front and factory rear ..
Bottom end stays +.40 over
2" in to the " Y " 2 1/4 to the muffler and out to the back ..

This is a Auto car and Ken at Oregon Cam said it is ok with a stock converter ..

The car is a round towner and some freeway
I dont need or want a 4bb set up .. it just more peppy and a good driver ..

Any one running this cam with a similar set up ?

Thanks
David


Last edited by ramcuda on Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:26 pm 
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Most people have best results going from point "A" (Here's what I want the car to do, here's my engine setup and some other changes I'm considering) to point "B" (What would be the best camshaft for this setup? OK, got it, thanks, I'll get that one).

Some reason you're trying to get from point "B" to point "A" instead…? 819 is your lucky number, or...?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:37 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:52 am
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Location: Santa Clara ca ..
Car Model: 1970 Dart Swinger ( mod top clone ) Slanty w/auto
thanks Dan

I thought my post was a bit hard to fallow as well ...

So i chopped it down a bit ..


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:11 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
I am running this cam in my D100 (3550#) and it works well. I am running a stock convertor also.

Rick

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:28 pm 
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My point is, what's making you interested in this cam specifically?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Yes, that cam should work well with the specs you have posted. It is basically a small step up from a stock cam. I would guess that Ken recommended this. I imagine he is getting pretty familiar with Slant folks calling and ordering by now...

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 5:46 am 
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Location: Salem, OR
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FYI, it's a close copy of the Comp Cam 264.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 10:29 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:52 am
Posts: 34
Location: Santa Clara ca ..
Car Model: 1970 Dart Swinger ( mod top clone ) Slanty w/auto
thanks guys

Dan im looking at it to see what other ppl think that run it ... I lost the cam grind you recommended when the board went down
and this is one of two grind Dusteridiot recommended...


I should be asking what cam do ppl think would be good for my set up ?

Just Want to add pep and keep good driveability


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:07 am 
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ramcuda wrote:
Dan I lost the cam grind you recommended when the board went down


Oregon № 2106R, that is the Dutra RV10RDP.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 6:45 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:52 am
Posts: 34
Location: Santa Clara ca ..
Car Model: 1970 Dart Swinger ( mod top clone ) Slanty w/auto
Doug or Dan

What is the real world diffrance
from the 819 grind and the 2106R ?

i mean do you think the 2106R is more of what im looking for
Trying not to run a grind that going to make invest into a new converter or
have to change the push rods after the head is cut ....

This is what i dislike about not knowing about cams


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 7:36 pm 
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If I were shooting in the dark (had to make a choice with no assistance, just based on known facts) I'd pick the Dutra cam in a hot second vs the Comp-copy cam, for reasons including that Doug is probably the world's foremost Slant-6 wizard and put a great deal of knowledgeable time and effort into devising the RV10RDP and RV15RDP cams, while Comp tends to throw generic old Chevy lobes on most of their cams (and I have seen too many Comp-cammed Slant-6s make endless hassle for their owners trying to get them to run right until they finally pull the Comp cam and put in something else).

BUT, you aren't shooting in the dark; you've got believable people here saying they run the Comp-copy cam with good results, so at this point you're probably choosing between two cams that would both work for you.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 1:50 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 4:39 am
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Location: Australia
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Pretty sure if you check the RV10 cam is an old Erson lobe which is also a “generic old Chev lobe” TQ10? the exhaust is an old Mopar profile with slow ramps which would also be happy with a Chev .842 Lifter. Most lobes classify as suitable for Chev lifter diameter so don’t get hung up on the generic Chev profile jargon.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 9:48 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Both of these cams are small enough that you will likely not be able to tell the difference. The 2016R is very close to the old MP 244/0.436" cam, which can be run with any comp ratio down to the lowest stock (observed) value, somewhere around 7.5 or 8:1. The 819 will give you a tiny bit more upper end performance, and should work very well with comp at 8.5 to 9:1 and stock converter. If you mill 0.060" you will be somewhere around 8.5:1 or maybe a skosh higher. Pushrods should be totally fine with that amount of head mill. I would probably go with the 819 myself, but again you probably would not be able to notice a difference.

Lou

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 1:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
My truck has gone 17.40 at 3550# so it is runs well for a brick. I have .100 off my head and run stock push rods with the reground cam.

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