So, is there a special tool for installing the sprocket that goes on the crankshaft?
Or, does it just slide on, with a little "persuasion"?
Thanks!

_________________
"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

After cleaning the crank hub, either use an oven, your gas BBQ, ot a plumbers torch and heat the gear up for a few minutes,
using a heavy leather glove to hold the sprocket, you just slide it on until it seats...

Do not hammer the sprocket on the crank, it will destroy the thrust bearing and you will be pulling the crank to replace...

Okay, thanks!
So, put the crank sprocket on first, then the timing chain and other sprocket?

_________________
"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."

'78 Volare 225

'67 Charger 318

crank first

.....then you have to get the cam timing right.

lazy way:

roll the crank to #1 TDC

roll cam to close intake and exhaust valves on #1

Bolt on cam gear and chain without disturbing cam or crank.

Using degree wheel ensure cam timing is correct.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Ugh, can't get it on all the way.
I'll try again after work...

_________________
"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."

'78 Volare 225

'67 Charger 318

You can use a piece of pipe, that slides over the crank snout. Big washer/something, and the crank bolt, and push the sprocket on. I actually have an old crank pulley hub, that is honed out to a slip fit. I can use that to press the sprocket, and also use to mount the degree wheel. Key way keeps it from slipping, but if I have to remove the degree wheel for any reason, it just slides off and back on in the same position.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Thanks Charrlie!

_________________
"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."

'78 Volare 225

'67 Charger 318

Well, the bolt will not thread into the crankshaft.
The sprocket is not on far enough, and now I can't remove it.
Any suggestions?

_________________
"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."

'78 Volare 225

'67 Charger 318

Remove sprocket with 2 or 3 jaw puller.

Once pulled, use 4-500 grit emery cloth to clean the crank area giving you problems... then do the same thing to
the inside of the sprocket (wrap cloth around a dowel and use it to hold the cloth while you rotate the gear on
the dowel or vice-versa)....

Clean both surfaces to remove any loose grit... heat the sprocket it up really well (5 minutes under a torch)
then reinstall.

Why won't the bolt screw into the crank? Are the threads messed up? Need to fix it. Otherwise, how are you going install the crank damper?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Ok, removed the pulley using a puller, so I'm back where I started.
Good question Charrlie, not sure. I think its the threads inside the crankshaft.
So, should I chase the threads?

Thanks for the replies fellas!

_________________
"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."

'78 Volare 225

'67 Charger 318

Check your crank key as well, since they can shift and jamb the gear up sometimes...

I would use a brush and some cleaner to clean out the crank bore, then try to thread a bolt in there first.
if it won't go then you need to chase the threads or you won't get the damper on as Charlie says....

I am assuming the crank is in the car / engine?


There is a Harmonic Dampener install tool that I like to use for this situation..
Works with dampeners and Lower Timing gears - Some times the lower gear needs to be sanded a bit to get the proper press fit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1023-1
the one I have is not available but this does similar.

Heating can help as other posters had mentioned.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Wes,
I'm getting ready to do a timing chain on my 82 D150. I knew my crank bolt would not be long enough to reinstall the harmonic balancer, and anyway I didn't like the idea of using a bolt with the crank female threads providing the the pulling power to install the balancer. So I bought a big piece of 3/4-16 allthread and cut it into 6" chunks. Now I can thread the all-thread fully into the the crank with a double-nut to anchor the rear end and keep it from rotating. Then, using one additional nut with a washer to drive on the balancer I'm home free. This should work fine to install both your gear and balancer. I have several more of these I will not need so if you want one, PM me to discuss. I'd sell one for peanuts plus shipping.

Oops. Also forgot to mention I have a flat bottom 3/4-16 tap I'd be happy to loan you to chase your threads.