I think I may actually have time to get back into Hoopty this year and see some pavement.. been in garage for a few years now with different ideas of different directions I would like to have gone. Just going to resort to basics and get going! The weber kit (wk551) just seems like the best option for me at the moment.. especially for $225!

I know the single barrel has had it.. last crank over, fuel began to seep and it's just not worth another rebuild. I have a super six that wvenable passed along to me several years ago and I'd like to use it with a weber. I'm all stock with a 3 speed but will be adding a new exhaust once I'm back up and going.. so I'll add the the 2.25.

I've read as much as I could here to find my answer but... I'm still not sure so I'll just ask. Which weber will work best for my setup with minimal to no tuning? I just wanna drive it haha

Thanks fellas

_________________
1964 Dodge A100 Truck

Is yours a 3 speed manual or automatic? The 32/36 is great once you get it dialed in, I had the "clone" that came off a Pinto and it's good for a daily driver. If you have an automatic you might have to get creative with the kickdown. I have read where the 1bbl adapter was junk but I don't know firsthand, since I make my own out of a slab of aluminum. But the 32/36 is a really good compromise between economy and performance.

_________________
If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

3 speed.. I have a Super Six intake that I will be using.

I read where some guys said that 32/36 was great once dialed in... thought I read somewhere that the larger ones worked better with less changes but I get lost in all the reading haha

I don't really have any concerns about economy.. I drive a Jeep

_________________
1964 Dodge A100 Truck

I had a 32/36 many years ago on a super six intake. Like previously stated, it was nice once it was tuned in but it is not a trouble free bolt in.

You mentioned that you are not interested in fuel mileage. I would recommend going to a Holley 350 cfm 2 bbl instead. Tuning will be easier, and hooking up shift/kickdown linkage will be easier as well.

Brian

_________________
Flyin' Brian

74 Duster, 225, rear-mounted blow through turbo at 12psi boost, street/strip car
"Sixy Beast"

What does it take to tune/fit 32/36? I have one Weber from Ford 2,0 OHC and I am thinking of using it on my 170. Other carb I could use is BBD from 318. With super six intake.

I don't have a problem with a Holley other than the price tag...

I'm a stick shift btw

I've read about the tuning with the 32/36 and could have sworn that I read somewhere that the 38/38 went a little better. Can't find it now. The 32/36 is progressive and the 38/38 is sync.. I think!

_________________
1964 Dodge A100 Truck

I missed that you are manual trans. The 32/36 is progressive, and requires the use of a cable type throttle linkage due to the 90 degree offset of the throttle plates/blades. You might be able to get a manual linkage to work, but there would be a lot of work involved to do so. I used a lokar throttle cable setup. I'm not sure if the 38/38 is progressive, but it definitely flows more cfm than the 32/36. Also not sure, but I think the 38/38 has the same issue with the throttle linkage as the 32/36.

Brian

_________________
Flyin' Brian



74 Duster, 225, rear-mounted blow through turbo at 12psi boost, street/strip car

"Sixy Beast"

The Weber 32/36 DGV is generally used on much smaller engines than our 225s and so takes some tuning on even a stock engine. I once used a Holley-Weber off a Pinto on a 225 with the 264 degree Comp Cams camshaft and had to drill out the idle jet to get enough fuel to even idle. That tiny emissions-oriented carburetor didn't have enough accelerator pump shot either and would bog if I got into the secondary too quickly. Some of this was surely due to the unheated Clifford manifold with it's larger-than-stock plenum, but it bears mention. I thought that I would gain low end torque compared to the Holley 390 4bbl, but I lost torque. The fuel economy was quite good, but performance and drive-ability was off so I put the 4bbl back on.

The Weber 38/38 is synchronous opening rather than staged, but is small enough that it tends to work well for most people without much fiddling and flows more so power can be better. If you have a good condition BBD or other small 2bbl that will bolt to the manifold you'll probably get similar performance to the Weber 38/38.

_________________
Joshua

I'm cabled

I just an old thread by Serj22
Weber on Supesix http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54617&highlight=weber+38+stock+kickdown I don't how to do the fancy link share haha

And Post 17 in this this thread https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/th ... 1972044454 are where my indecisiveness comes into play

_________________
1964 Dodge A100 Truck

Thanks for the info. I don't have a carb at all so I'm looking for a starting point.. Just hard to beat for the money for a brand new carb kit compared to other carbs and not get some Chinese rebuilt pos

On side note.. I'll ditch that crappy filter that's included

Just looking for more real world experiences. But I think I'm leaning towards the 38

_________________
1964 Dodge A100 Truck

The 38/38 is what I would buy if I needed/wanted a street 2 bbl. Definitely get a good air cleaner.

A pair of 32/36 Webers would be cool, but at the point it's probably easier to divide the plenum of a 4 bbl manifold, bolt on an Edelbrock 500 and never have to syncronize the carbs or chokes.

_________________
Joshua

Another carb I have used is the Motorcraft 2100, the one with the "1.08" stamped on the side. It's a favorite of Jeep owners. Super simple carburetor. The only downside is finding jets. I had an early model off a dump truck that used Holley jets, but I ended up selling it to a coworker who installed it on an F100. It requires an adapter plate, but it seems to be a great carb for a mild slant. I upgraded to a Holley 350 2bbl, which is another option. The base gaskets and adapter are the same.

_________________
If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

It's actually the other way around. I was able to use a 32/36 on a Super Six manifold with a stock '64 rod linkage because with the carb mounted perpendicular to the engine, the separate throttle shafts point fore-and-aft like the shaft on the stock Carter BBS. You will have to fabricate a fitting for the carb side, though. I cut the stock U-shaped bit (with the little rubber insert) off an old BBS, welded a coupling nut on the end, and drilled the nut for a set screw to lock it onto the Weber's primary throttle shaft, which had a flat on each side. There are probably better ways to do this.

The 38/38, being synchronous, will be easier to tune. That's what I'd use if you've already got a throttle cable and you don't care about mileage. No worrying about the secondary transition or separate jet sizing for each barrel. Which is a big deal since each barrel has idle, main, and air corrector jets.

FYI, from what I've read the commonly seen bog on secondary opening with the 32/36 is usually the result of too small a secondary "idle" jet. The 32/36 typically uses a single accelerator pump nozzle, so the secondary barrel doesn't get a pump shot.

_________________
Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Thanks for the feedback guys.. I pulled the trigger and grabbed a 38/38. I ended up going with the genuine Weber rather than the lesser Weber appearing. I didn't realize it wasn't an actual Weber at first. Ordered last Friday off Ebay while the Ebay sale was happening and saved almost $50. $246.00 for the entire Redline kit (K551-38 for a 258)..carb, adapters, hoses, bellcrank, crappy filter etc. to my door on Monday. And it's a beauty! And I went with electric choke.

I have a buddy of mine who runs a sandblasting business, knock all the crap off the Super Six intake and I shot some aluminum paint on it. Looks pretty snazzy

Now I just need to get a motor back in this truck.

_________________
1964 Dodge A100 Truck

There is a guy on Facebook looking to sell a practically new 38/38 that he just used to break in his new motor and then went with another carb due to tuning issues. I could see what he wants for it if you like.