i second 63gtcvred advice..
remove all spark plugs, (note where every wire goes first so that you return them to the same place)
spray some type of oil into each cylinder (back in the day, I remember my grandfather using transmission fluid) it doesnt need much.
Turn engine by hand a few turns. according to my grandfather's advice, this lubes and frees up the piston rings.

then put it back together with new spark plugs if needed, new fuel filter, getting rid of any old fuel and adding new is highly advised.
lightly sandpaper the inside of the distributor cap and rotor.
Put some fuel down the carb and fire it up..

these engines are cockroaches,, they never die!!

I bet it will start !!!

_________________
Slant power!!!
At least I try...

Hello everyone....Thanks again for all the replies. I haven't touched it yet. As soon as the weather breaks a bit, I'll be on it.....it is stored outside, so when it gets to 40+ degrees......I'll keep you posted.

I hear ya.
Weather Man says we have gotten the second largest amount of snow fall in February, here in northern Wisc. since they started keeping track.

Looking forward to some warmer weather.

Keep in touch.

Yepper,
Kind of a local colloquialism,
Yooper in the u.P.
Troll from under the bridge.

No offense intended.

Hello all, thanks for everyone responding back. My boys and I were into the stepvan last Fall for a bit, when I first posted, then nothing until this past Easter when we made a lot of progress. Then summer hit and nothing, now we've been back into it for the past 2 weeks. So far, in no particular order: new alternator, spark plugs, ignition wires, plugs, installed new fuel tank and all fuel lines, filter, fuel pump, and rebuilt original carburetor, coil, dropped oil pan and wiped it out and re-installed with new gasket, removed and cleaned radiator and will reinstall with all new hoses, new water pump, new thermostat, new battery.....purchased a new starter but haven't tried the old one yet. maybe a few other things too. Last Easter sprayed a good amount of fogging oil into each cylinder. Getting very close to turning the key!

Oh yeah, I'm a troll in SE Michigan, but not proud of it. Up north in God's country is where it's at! Lot of good times on H-58, back when it was a dirt road.
Cheers all!

Karl

Hello again, one year later....
Latest position on the step van. currently getting all new brake system converting from drum to all disc. Had a compression check done and 2 cylinders had a reading of 5, need to rebuild the engine. If my son and I and a couple experienced buddies choose to tackle this, are the parts we will need for a complete rebuild readily available? Its got a slant 225 in it. Also, want to convert from a manual to an automatic trans....
Any recent rebuilders out there?

Karl

You may want to review the info in the SL6 engine rebuilding book and develop a plan, prior the starting the engine rebuild process.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=62740

Ask question and place want-adds for needed parts.
DD

In the middle of a rebuild right now, am not having any problem getting parts for my 225

Thanks for the good news on parts....I do have the Dutra book. Is there any certain place to get parts or any local shop/napa/online store?

Karl

Might wanna ask here in the wanted section 1st, never know what the members might have laying around,
But get it apart 1st and to the machine shop so you can get the right parts based on needed machine work.
Often the machine shop themselves can be a good source of parts

Stock parts are available, although you may have to look around if you need a weird oversize ring or undersize bearing. I usually get all my rebuild parts from RockAuto. Make dead sure you're ordering bearings for the correct crank (forged or cast), as the online listings are frequently wrong. Folks here can help you check part numbers if needed.

I assume you did a compression test for a reason (i.e. the engine wasn't running right), but as compression tests are easy to mess up, it's prudent to ask how you did the test. How many times did you turn the engine over per cylinder, or did you just crank until the pressure leveled off each time? Throttle plate open or closed? Was there an O-ring seal in place on the tester hose, with the hose tightened enough to compress the seal every time? Did you remove the spark plug tubes, if applicable? (There may not be enough clamping force on the hand-tightened hose connection to seal the aluminum spark plug tube against the head like a properly-torqued spark plug would... especially if some of the tubes are in rough shape.)

Also make sure you adjust your valve lash. Too-tight lash could cause a valve to hang open and show low compression.

_________________
Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Hello, thanks for the reply, space frank, lots of good questions that i will have to ask my shop about. ANother suggestion that my shop had was to place a Holley Sniper EFI conversion kit on the engine to eliminate the finicky carburetor issues. Anyone hear of this or use one themselves?

This all depends on how much money you want to spend. A properly operating carb should start and run fine for you if it is in good shape. Electric choke is nice for sure. EFI is nice but there is no cheap way to get there.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I have a slant that has fuel injection and a slant that runs a carburetor. They both run fine. There are advantages and disadvantages to each fuel system. If I was working with a shop on a carbureted engine and they said that I needed FI to get the engine to run right I would find a different shop. As what they are really saying is that they do not know how to tune a carburetor.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8