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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 6:02 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2018 11:20 am
Posts: 35
Car Model: 1983 Dodge D150 slant six 4 speed OD
do you guys have any particular favorites as far as master rebuild kits on the market? It’s for a 1983 Dodge D150. I heard good things about northern auto parts master rebuild kit and they have 10% off everything going on right now. Then beyond that, if I pull the head and have it shaved down to raise compression and swap to a higher performance cam shaft and springs while I’m at it, any suggestions as far as those go? Also, any other suggestions or tips you might have regarding a mild performance build? I’m going to use this with an Aussiespeed long runner intake and Dutra Duals. This is my first engine rebuild and I want to make sure I cover all my bases. Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 10:19 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 8321
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
If you get a Master rebuild kit it may come with a stock camshaft? Plus if you rebuild it you will have the head off so I would definitely bump the compression up, clean up the bowl areas under the valves, and I would go a couple steps bigger than stock on a camshaft for sure. You can get considerably more power plus better gas mileage with a good selection of parts.

If you pull your cam and oil pump out and the gears look good I would definitely have that cam reground (Oregon Cams) and put them back in together.

So you can see a master kit may or may not work for you. If you don't want the cam they offer or the oil pump or.....etc then a "kit" may not be the best route. I usually just order parts when I find them cheap on line.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 3:09 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2018 11:20 am
Posts: 35
Car Model: 1983 Dodge D150 slant six 4 speed OD
Rick Covalt wrote:
If you get a Master rebuild kit it may come with a stock camshaft? Plus if you rebuild it you will have the head off so I would definitely bump the compression up, clean up the bowl areas under the valves, and I would go a couple steps bigger than stock on a camshaft for sure. You can get considerably more power plus better gas mileage with a good selection of parts.

If you pull your cam and oil pump out and the gears look good I would definitely have that cam reground (Oregon Cams) and put them back in together.

So you can see a master kit may or may not work for you. If you don't want the cam they offer or the oil pump or.....etc then a "kit" may not be the best route. I usually just order parts when I find them cheap on line.


That makes perfect sense! Are there any gasket kits/pistons/piston rings, etc that are better than others and where do most people source them from? Ideally I’d love to find a good machine shop around here that can do the head work and valves and all that and then get everything freshened up. My truck is basically all apart right now with the intake and exhaust manifold removed currently while I wait on my Aussiespeed long runner intake and Dutra Duals to come In. I’m sure with a non adjustable rockers in the head that I’ll need shorter push rods as well once I get the head shaved down. I do have a factory service already so that should help with specs for reassembly for sure. I’ve watched a million shows and videos where they assemble the block and everything so I have a decent idea what I’m doing, but I’ve never physically done one.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 5:35 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
I’m sure with a non adjustable rockers in the head that I’ll need shorter push rods as well once I get the head shaved down

Maybe, but maybe not if you have your existing camshaft reground. When they regrind the cam the base circle gets smaller and the pushrods may be fine.

Some one on here did some testing on how much travel there is inside of the hydraulic lifters. Maybe Dadtruck?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 6:25 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3807
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
Quote:
travel there is inside of the hydraulic lifters.


I would have to go back and look at my notes, but there is a lot,

on my build, and I took a lot of care measuring lifter pre load in the
stock and after changes condition.

shaving approx. .040 off the head and .010 off the block,
would have the effect of moving the cam and rocker shaft closer and making the
push rods too long

having the cam re ground, and the base circle smaller
would have the effect of moving the cam and rocker shaft farther apart and making
the push rods too short.

put these two together and for me the hydraulic lifter pre load ended up with .010 of where
it was in the stock condition.

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