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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 11:50 am 
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Supercharged

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I saw a posting on using molasses to de-rust engine components.
Giving it a try on lightly rusted NOS Mopar windage tray and a modified slant six oil pan with what I would call medium rust.

The parts went into a solution of approximately 1 gallon of molasses to 10 gallons of water today, April 29.
I'll let em soak for about 5 days and post photos.


Attachments:
File comment: setting in an old water softner salt tank
M1.jpg
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File comment: parts, the other side
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File comment: parts
M3.jpg
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File comment: from Tractor Supply about $10.00 per gallon
M2.jpg
M2.jpg [ 59.1 KiB | Viewed 2188 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 2:54 pm 
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Can I get a close up of that Molasses label, I want to see what it says...front and back if you can. Thanks. brian

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 3:01 pm 
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Molasses works on the same principle as Evaporust, but has different chelating agents. Evaporust has a di-basic chelator, while Molasses has di-acid chelators (oxalic acid and/or hydroxamic acids). My working theory is that Evaporust is more effective (due to basic rather than acidic pH). Both are dilute and relatively benign, but I think Evaporust might be faster and more effective to clean off the rust. Just curious what the molasses label says.

Brian

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 4:44 pm 
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photos of the ingredients and the manufacturer and their phone number

Evaporust is a great product and I have used it on small parts, works fine.
The problem is Evaporust is $20.00+ per gallon and I am looking for something that I can submerge large parts in. Right now I have 2 gallons of molasses, with tax $21.50 and 20 gallons of water.
Do you think Evaporust would be effective diluted to 10:1? I don't know, that is why I am asking.
Although it would have to go to 20:1 to have the same approximate price point.


Attachments:
File comment: manufacturer and phone number
lable 2.jpg
lable 2.jpg [ 79.53 KiB | Viewed 2144 times ]
File comment: ingredient into
label 1.jpg
label 1.jpg [ 78.91 KiB | Viewed 2144 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 5:47 pm 
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That's what I'm wondering, i.e. the relative price vs effectiveness. I have diluted Evaporust many fold and it still works. The Molasses have a lot of extra ingredients (sugars and proteins) that don't do anything for the rust, and can mold quickly. I routinely dilute 1 gallon of Evaporust to 5 gallons and it works fine. I'm sure you could go to 10 gallons or more. When I did my hood, I diluted 2 gallons of Evaporust to probably 40-50 gallons. It still worked, but slower than normal. My suspicion is that dollar for dollar, Evaporust is more effective, but I've not tried the molasses in a side-by-side test.

I am thinking about simply buying EDTA (active ingredient in Evaporust, very cheap) by the pound and trying my own solution (have to adjust the pH, plus they use some other agents that aren't readily available).

brian

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 6:17 pm 
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Supercharged

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Quote:
I'm sure you could go to 10 gallons or more.


that is good to know, please post if you have success developing your home brew rust remover.

It is great to have a chemist active at .org, I can say with much certainty, that is not one of my areas of expertise.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 8:00 pm 
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On DeBoss Garage on Youtube he gets the molasses at a feed store for 50 cent per liter (Canadian ). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkG5mluBuAI


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 12:13 am 
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Scott Smith has talked about using molasses as a deruster on Moparts. He usually lets parts sit for 2 weeks to 30 days. He had pictures of an 8-3/4 center section that looked like it had been stored in the bottom of a lake. When he took it out and hosed it off it looked like new.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 6:19 pm 
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I've used molasses on skillets, manifolds, tools, you name it. If you have a feed and grain store nearby it's really inexpensive and you can use it less diluted. It works, but don't be in a hurry. Give it 2 weeks to a month, and it doesn't smell good.

For faster rust removal, I prefer electrolysis. https://youtu.be/KHo2tSMs8VY

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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2018 6:25 pm 
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been in a solution of 2 gallons of molasses and approx. 30 gallons of water for four days

I had about 4 inches of the oil pan and windage tray out of the molasses solution,
the transition line is obvious.

I added approximately 10 gallons of water to the existing solution to get the oil pan and windage tray fully submerged.

this is working well,, for a no effort, inexpensive de-rust.


Attachments:
mol2.jpg
mol2.jpg [ 85.78 KiB | Viewed 1965 times ]
mol1.jpg
mol1.jpg [ 83.8 KiB | Viewed 1965 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2018 6:40 pm 
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Nice! It's an old farm trick that works well if you are not in a hurry. Works on fenders, rims, bumpers, whatever you can submerge.

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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2018 6:53 pm 
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Hey Coconuteater

How far have you diluted a molassas solution?

Is there a ‘sweet spot’ concerning the ratio of molassas to water?

Does it eventually lose it’s effectiveness with use?


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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2018 3:52 am 
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Cool. I need to try this sometime.

Lou

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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2018 5:21 am 
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DadTruck wrote:
Hey Coconuteater

How far have you diluted a molassas solution?

Is there a ‘sweet spot’ concerning the ratio of molassas to water?

Does it eventually lose it’s effectiveness with use?


I don't know how far it can go, but I do know the more diluted it is, the less effective it is. I use roughly a quart or so every 10 gallons, more if the part is really rusty. That's my minimum dilution. There may be an optimum ratio, but I haven't found it. For the antique skillets I do for the missus, I use it one to one, but then again we're not talking about a lot of molasses to do a skillet.

I have never had it lose its potency as long as it's covered.

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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2018 4:26 pm 
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How do you mix it? Or does it mix easily I guess I am asking?

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