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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2019 10:25 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2018 8:19 am
Posts: 6
Car Model*: 1974 Clark forklift
Been reading and researching on here quite a while and cannot find a solution to my problem. Anything I do with this forklift carburetor is frustrating!!! Engine is totally rebuilt and I modified a single barrel intake into a 2 barrel sideways cause I heard they distribute the mixture better and my linkages will work better. I got a cheap Chinese Carter BBD carb off Ebay and It works but not good. The accelerator pump comes on too late and there's no way to adjust it that I see to make it work right. What's the best carb off ebay that works right out of the box? Or should I just go to a fuel injecton setup? I have a machine shop so making anything is not a big deal. It has to idle low so when I shift it in gear it doesn't slam too hard. That's where I need the accelerator pump to come on right away. With the carb I got now the pump doesn't squirt till about 1/3 throttle and by then its already stalling out. I've already broken 2 axles by it slamming into gear cause it idles too high and I don't want there to be a 3rd.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2019 8:07 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2011 5:53 pm
Posts: 180
Location: San Diego California
Car Model*: 1982 D150
I personally do not trust eBay much.. I'm sorry I cannot recommend where to get a reliable BBD. I bought a new redline 38/38 kit and I am impressed with the difference it made..
I need to add that I have always used bone yard carbs before buying the new Weber..
Check the parts list. Maybe someone has a good carb they can sell you.

_________________
Slant power!!!
At least I try...


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 4:41 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 875
Car Model*:
Right now nothing on ebay for your application,some nos stuff but for 318.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 4:44 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 875
Car Model*:
About 4 minutes into this video some info on pump linkage. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2Da60sEgzE


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 4:58 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 875
Car Model*:
About 8 minutes in this one, try different holes , bend linkage rod. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9WxF2RZp8c


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 8:07 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon May 26, 2014 4:02 pm
Posts: 132
Location: Vermont
Car Model*:
Ive got a used BBD if you are still looking.. but for now:

The lack of accelerator pump shot is an easy fix: For the "Right here Right now" crowd take a twist tie from the kitchen at home, and wrap it a few times around the acc pump lever, fishing it through the slot in the acc pump.

The real fix may be to pull the carb apart, and replace the acc pump spring. Look at Mikes Carburetor Parts website, as I believe he has one.

As for the high idle...? Check that the throttle blade is closing fully... and for other opportunities to have some sort of vacuum leak..


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 10:40 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3555
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model*: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Does your BBD have holes in the throttle blades? If so, epoxy those hole closed and that will help control the lower RPMs.

As for the pump shot being late, the plunger may-be up to high at idle.
Modify (bend) the linkage rod to drop the pump plunger down a little deeper into the "well" to see if that helps.
DD


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 11:05 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2018 8:19 am
Posts: 6
Car Model*: 1974 Clark forklift
I think I may have figured out a idea. I've got 4 old single barrel carbs and one had a rod with a 1/8 slot about 3 inches long. I think I can rig up a linkage that will go through the slot and pull on the pump first, and then when the slot bottoms out on the butterfly linkage it will open the throttle blades. Never really thought of that cause I've never seen a direct linkage right on the accelerator pump before. Instead of having holes through the throttle blades this carb has holes just above the blades to the outside of the carb. I don't like the holes to unfiltered outside air. This would be a big issue if I still lived on gravel but since I'm in town now I don't think there's enough dust being stirred up regularly to destroy the engine. The high idle is a little better and I think when I get the linkages done a little more spring pressure will help that out also. Ill post a pic when I get the linkages done.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 5:47 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 875
Car Model*:
High idle speed,on the original carters some carbs, no holes in throttle plate 273 or slant. Most but not all 318,s had holes in plate,some had idle air bypass assist. This bypass air would make a slant idle too fast. viewtopic.php?f=19&t=63145&hilit=assist


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 6:26 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 875
Car Model*:
The bypass hole connected to pcv port inside the carb at base plate. If hole is there block it. Also put valve in pvc line,turn off till after in gear. That should in theory lower idle speed,reduced air flow. Check base ignition timing, with vacuum advance line off carb. Retard if needed to reduce idle speed.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 11:54 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2018 8:19 am
Posts: 6
Car Model*: 1974 Clark forklift
I got another carb for my forklift. This one works better thank goodness. It has quite a few ports on it that I had to plug I think. There is very little stumble after the throttle is opened. The accelerator pump comes on almost right away unlike the other carb. I don't know what all the ports are but I plugged most of them except the one for the pcv valve and the one that goes to the vacuum advance. Hopefully I used the right ports. I'm also running the needles about 1-1/2 turns out and that feels close but not quite sure.


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