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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2019 1:55 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2018 10:52 pm
Posts: 76
Car Model*: 1975 Plymouth Duster
This is what I have so far;

Image

I'm wondering if I'm attaching the PCV hose to the correct port. There are two ports of that size on the carb, and I have no idea what the second one would be for. It's currently on the diagonal port on the bottom of the carb, should it be on the one on top of the bowl area? I'm also assuming that anything not being used should be blocked off with vacuum caps. No clue what the port surrounded by screws is on the bowl, so I blocked that off too. This engine has no emissions equipment.

Sorry for image quality being stuck in the 1980s.


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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2019 2:22 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12371
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model*: 82 Ramcharger, 76 D100
Plymouth_Ruster wrote:
This is what I have so far;

Image

I'm wondering if I'm attaching the PCV hose to the correct port. There are two ports of that size on the carb, and I have no idea what the second one would be for. It's currently on the diagonal port on the bottom of the carb, should it be on the one on top of the bowl area? I'm also assuming that anything not being used should be blocked off with vacuum caps. No clue what the port surrounded by screws is on the bowl, so I blocked that off too. This engine has no emissions equipment.

Sorry for image quality being stuck in the 1980s.


(1) that is a carb for a 318. The choke thermostat will not open the choke properly without either using a slant six specific BBD choke linkage piece or using the adapter to run a V-8 carb on a slant six.
(2) PCV is hooked up correctly.
(3) distributor vacuum advance appears to be hooked up correctly.
(4) port on the bowl is the bowl vent. Don't cap it. Get a charcoal cannister and use the bowl vent as it was designed to be used.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals are downliadbale HERE


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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2019 2:49 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2018 10:52 pm
Posts: 76
Car Model*: 1975 Plymouth Duster
Reed wrote:
Plymouth_Ruster wrote:
This is what I have so far;

Image

I'm wondering if I'm attaching the PCV hose to the correct port. There are two ports of that size on the carb, and I have no idea what the second one would be for. It's currently on the diagonal port on the bottom of the carb, should it be on the one on top of the bowl area? I'm also assuming that anything not being used should be blocked off with vacuum caps. No clue what the port surrounded by screws is on the bowl, so I blocked that off too. This engine has no emissions equipment.

Sorry for image quality being stuck in the 1980s.


(1) that is a carb for a 318. The choke thermostat will not open the choke properly without either using a slant six specific BBD choke linkage piece or using the adapter to run a V-8 carb on a slant six.
(2) PCV is hooked up correctly.
(3) distributor vacuum advance appears to be hooked up correctly.
(4) port on the bowl is the bowl vent. Don't cap it. Get a charcoal cannister and use the bowl vent as it was designed to be used.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals are downliadbale HERE


Alright, well I don't have a charcoal canister, neither of the engines I've seen even had one, I couldn't afford one even if I could find it, and I want the engine to run today. Do I just leave the thing open to the air, or what?

Forgot to add that all super six linkage pieces are made of diamonds and impossible to find. Everything about this super six setup has been and will be jerry-rigged.


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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2019 3:54 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2018 10:52 pm
Posts: 76
Car Model*: 1975 Plymouth Duster
For reference on what I mean by "jerry-rigged," the throttle return spring is hooked to the radiator. I'm planning on using the idle speed adjustment screws to activate the kickdown, in some horrendously unsafe and hacked-together way. Considering the kickdown only activates on the last third of throttle travel, I'm not setting that up yet.


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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2019 7:33 pm 
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Supercharged
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12371
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model*: 82 Ramcharger, 76 D100
Plymouth_Ruster wrote:
For reference on what I mean by "jerry-rigged," the throttle return spring is hooked to the radiator. I'm planning on using the idle speed adjustment screws to activate the kickdown, in some horrendously unsafe and hacked-together way. Considering the kickdown only activates on the last third of throttle travel, I'm not setting that up yet.


Well, you are free to set it up however you want. Lots of people have fabricated the Super Six throttle and kickdown limnkage pieces. The factory throttle return spring bracket can be fabricated out of a piece of flat metal. You can get cable throttle kickdown linkages on eBay for less than $30, or salvage a throttle cable off of an old lawnmoer and get creative if money is really tight.

The kickdown works far earlier than the last 1/3 of throttle travel. The kickdown lever control the line pressure in the transmission throughout the throttle range, from closed to open. You need one that works and works properly.

If you can't scrounge a charcoal cannister form a junked car, leave the bowl vent uncapped.

I encourage you to read the carburetor manual I linked to and to also look at the stickies in the engine section. There are links there to the instructions on how to fabricate the adapter to make the v-8 carb work with the slant six chokle thermostat.


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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2019 8:17 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2018 10:52 pm
Posts: 76
Car Model*: 1975 Plymouth Duster
Reed wrote:
Plymouth_Ruster wrote:
For reference on what I mean by "jerry-rigged," the throttle return spring is hooked to the radiator. I'm planning on using the idle speed adjustment screws to activate the kickdown, in some horrendously unsafe and hacked-together way. Considering the kickdown only activates on the last third of throttle travel, I'm not setting that up yet.


Well, you are free to set it up however you want. Lots of people have fabricated the Super Six throttle and kickdown limnkage pieces. The factory throttle return spring bracket can be fabricated out of a piece of flat metal. You can get cable throttle kickdown linkages on eBay for less than $30, or salvage a throttle cable off of an old lawnmoer and get creative if money is really tight.

The kickdown works far earlier than the last 1/3 of throttle travel. The kickdown lever control the line pressure in the transmission throughout the throttle range, from closed to open. You need one that works and works properly.

If you can't scrounge a charcoal cannister form a junked car, leave the bowl vent uncapped.

I encourage you to read the carburetor manual I linked to and to also look at the stickies in the engine section. There are links there to the instructions on how to fabricate the adapter to make the v-8 carb work with the slant six chokle thermostat.


Well, it's not getting any gas through to the engine, so it looks like I have to take it apart anyway.


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