The plan for the 68 Barracuda is to be a multi-tasker,
Street-Strip-Autocross,,

so that gets me to the oil pan, I found this thread from Lou, about five years ago,,

viewtopic.php?t=55530

ideas and updates concerning oil pan baffles is appreciated.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

You could try the poor man's solution...run one extra quart of oil.

An accusump would help too! For hard core straight line racing and hard core left and right turn racing have different baffling needs. So finding a single pan to fit both styles of racing may not be a viable option. The baffling and trap doors for drag racing could negate the function of the baffles for a road race style pan if installed in the same pan, or vice versa.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

What about diagonal baffles or an "X" shaped baffle with a hole in the middle?

Hello CNC Dude,
please explain



as drag racing momentum is mainly front to rear and road racing momentum can be side to side or front to rear, I see a case for certain baffles being not required for a

specific activity but not necessarily mutually exclusive to the other. Remember this in Sportsman style racing, not Pro racing where every ounce needs to be accounted for.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

See if you can call moroso or canton pans tech line.

Get some ideas from them.. then build that for your slant pan.

Get it to do 2 things.

Keep the oil down and away from the crank and get it to not uncover the pickup.

Extra capacity is also needed. Up to 8 or 9 qts.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Really? That is a lot of extra oil. I would have never thought you would need that much. Learn something new every day!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

DadTruck, a drag pan is designed deeper and with sudden momentum going rearward in mind, having trap doors to keep oil from leaving the pickup only moving in a straight line. A road race style and most circle track pans are shallow and wider with kickouts, but with no rearward trap doors because they do not accelerate with the same momentum as a drag car. Two different styles of racing designs and purposes, not Pro racing by any means. Just look at Moroso, Stef's, Canton, Hamburger and all other top brand name oil pan makers. It just may be difficult to find a pan that will perform well in both types of uses you are seeking.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Yep, windage tray, crank scraper and a lot of extra oil capacity if you will be using serious tires. The old 225/50R15 Kumho Victoracers I used when road racing were enough to give me oil control problems.

From experience I can tell you that an Accusump will cause the anti-drainback valve in the oil filter to fail if you have a pressure loss. I had my Accusump plumbed into the 3/8" NPT port where the oil pressure light switch lived and the post-mortum on the oil filter showed the drainback valve to be wadded up. So if you do an Accusump I would plumb it like this: Oil pump - check valve - external oil filter - T fitting with the Accusump on the branch - engine. If you'll be road racing you will probably want an oil cooler. Put it on the clean side of the filter after making sure it's clean.

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Joshua

I have a deep Jeffrey pan (imagine that) and I run 5 quarts.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Could that have just been the quality of the filter you were using?

Maybe finding a different filter would work correctly.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Yes, definitely more capacity, as Greg says. Drag racing is easy compared to road/autoX, so if it will corner well you are good for drags. 8 qts minimum. With more stock pans, I have taken to overfilling by 1-3 qts and the engine seems happy enough and pickup stays covered. If you are worried about windage at the drags, then fill less as Dennis says, even with a modified pan. In road/autoX, you need the pickup covered and who cares if you pick up 0.1 sec per lap if your engine is in pieces? I lower the sump bottom by 0.8" usually and then maybe raise the engine a little or have thought of welding a little protection in front of the pan. I have pics of multiple pans on my flickr site.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Maybe. Feel free to risk your own rod bearings.

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Joshua

I agree with that, and thanks for the tip on the over fill for cornering protection. I agree with Dennis, a deep pan for drag racing gets the oil further from the spinning crank, so don't over fill those.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

and this is what I did, a simple baffle to stop the oil in the sump from flowing out of the sump on extreme latitudinal or longitudinal transitions.

* I started with the pan, and pick up I was planning to use and a bare block,
installed the pick up and pan and reached down through the cylinder bores
with an extension on a Sharpie and traced the profile of the pick up base and tube

** Then made a cardboard template to fit the sump and redrew the traced profile on the cardboard

*** Used the cardboard template to make a baffle from a piece of 24 gauge steel that I had available

**** I enlarged the oil pick up base opening, as I wanted to make sure that I had a good path to get oil back in the sump.
I am set to use a windage tray and up and down crank scrapers.

***** Taped the baffle in place and made a test fit trial with the open block. Then welded the baffle to the oil pan.
The dip stick clears into the opening easily.

****** Had to make one final adjustment to clear a windage tray mounting stud, and the pan with the baffle fits fine.

I started this project yesterday afternoon and finished it today.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8