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Engine ID help
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=64239
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Author:  ronwin64 [ Wed Nov 20, 2019 9:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Engine ID help

Hi guys, I could uses a little help. Fortune smiled and I was able to buy a 65 Valient with the world famous SLANT SIX. Well as fate would have it the engine and the body are not the same year or at least I don't think so. So here's what I found

from the front of the head: markings are 5K followed by 225 8449 I
Note there were NO standard markings ie. P T R or H
if I did this right in the pics are the cast numbers which I can't seem to find and what I believe to be the manufacture date.
As I am at a loss any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

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Author:  OGLeanDart270 [ Wed Nov 20, 2019 9:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine ID help

Not seen that casting number before but is certainly 68 or newer as it appears to have 5 freeze plugs.

Dates are stamped not cast as far as I know. Top of block facing up just below front spark plug. Likely the ledge is covered in oil you may need to wipe it down to read it.

"from the front of the head: markings are 5K followed by 225 8449 I"

If those are the numbers from that spot I think it means you have a cast crank 225 engine from 1984 (Sept 14th).

If the engine is from a 68 or newer car the VIN is under spark plug 6 at the rear of engine facing fender.

Does the head have spark plug tubes? Or do the plugs thread directly in the head without tubes?

Author:  ronwin64 [ Thu Nov 21, 2019 11:29 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine ID help

Thanks for looking into this for me. So I had a look below the number 6 plug and found an empty plate. Gonna have to pull the alt. and coil. to get a better look under number 1 plug. BTW the plugs sit more in an opening and less of a tube. .... but here's a pic or two maybe you'll find them usefull. I let yooou know when I have time to look under #1 plug


Thanks

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Author:  OGLeanDart270 [ Thu Nov 21, 2019 8:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine ID help

Cylinder head is 75+. Note it uses different spark plugs than earlier heads. That pic on the very bottom has the date code, should be able to wipe it off enough to read it. Zooming in I can see a few numbers but can't make them out. Also if you remove the valve cover you can tell if it is hydraulic or mechanical valvetrain. If rockers arms dont have a nut on top to adjust it is a hydraulic motor from the 80's.

VIN should be stamped on that top pic on the side where the rib is a little bigger. Not sure if they stamped VIN numbers on replacement engines or engines made for farm implements and marine use though.

There are some good reference articles on the home page of the website and of course the best reference is Chrysler Slant Six Engines book by Doug Dutra that just came out earlier this year, is a must buy if you plan on rebuilding a slant.

Brandon

Author:  ronwin64 [ Fri Nov 22, 2019 8:06 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine ID help

This has become quite the head scratcher.........after pulling the alt.,the coil and bracket I find yet another plank plate. I did find some more numbers on the front of the block but not sure if they are of any consequence. Didn't pull the valve cover but had a peek through the filler cap and it's hydraulic just as you had expected. The partial numbers you asked about are the same as in the very first pic I sent 12.8.84 maybe it's the build date. Could be that this engine was an industrial/marine application......that might explain the lack of markings. If that is the case, where do I go to find info for that series of engines?

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Author:  Joshie225 [ Fri Nov 22, 2019 8:10 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine ID help

In your second picture I see the outboard side of the pad. The number, if any, will be stamped on the skyward portion of that pad. If the block deck has ever been resurfaced the number is likely gone.

What having a later engine in your Valiant means in practical terms is just that you'll use different spark plugs. If your car retains its original distributor and carburetor (or accurate replacements) a tune-up will be to the original specifications, but hydraulic valve gear will eliminate the valve lash/clearance adjustment. The hydraulic head was wider and so was the valve cover and gasket. And if major engine work is ever required you will need crankshaft bearings for the later engine.

Author:  ronwin64 [ Fri Nov 22, 2019 1:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine ID help

cleaned that rail spick and span and wouldn't you know it there was nothing on it besides the paint. I guess the only thing left to do is pull the distributor match it up best I can with year models and go from there. She runs good on the new plugs I put in gapped at .035. Not sure what to gap the points at. The timing band is the tube style and I believe the advance is 10-12 BTDC at any rate it runs well set there. Gotta replace the vac advance pod on the distributor I'll see how it runs then.

Thanks for your help. If you can think of anything else that might be helpful please let me know

Author:  ronwin64 [ Fri Nov 22, 2019 1:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine ID help

I forgot to mention the date code you asked about is the same as on the other side 12.8.84

Author:  DusterIdiot [ Fri Nov 22, 2019 4:35 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine ID help

Quote:
I guess the only thing left to do is pull the distributor match it up best I can with year models and go from there... Not sure what to gap the points at.



It's a late 1984 engine from the 1985 Model Year...If the distributor is points its most likely original to your car, since points ceased to exist in vehicle distributors about 1972,
and in the 80's vacuum advance and mechanical advance was not as common with the use of the ESC computer. Josh kinda hints at it, but most likely the previous owner
tanked the original engine and replaced it with a late cast crank peanut plug head 225 slant six, then probably installed the 60's distributor, carb, etc to get it back on the road.

Author:  ronwin64 [ Fri Nov 22, 2019 10:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine ID help

Wanna thank you guys for the engine ID help. I feel a little better about things as I go forward. Don't think I'll be rebuilding the engine any time soon as it runs very strong. Might change the timing chain though. Not because there's a lot of slack, but just because.

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