Does anyone have experience to share regarding the Clifford intake?

I am particularly interested in whether the ribs in the plenum should be ground down to promote a more even fuel distribution.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

If you have it already, that's one thing, but if not, be very careful and think hard before you decide to spend any money with Clifford. They have a long and ugly reputation for being a bunch of clowns; see for example here, here, here, here, and here. You don't need to go to Clifford to get hot rod parts for slant-6s; there are lots of other options from vendors who behave like grownups. For example, there's the reputable Offenhauser 4bbl intake, and the Hurricane intakes, other exotic intakes (last I heard recently, these are moving toward availability).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The Clifford is the best performance intake for racing bar none. I believe the one you have there must be an early one, I don't think any of the later ones I've owned still had them.

That being said, there really isn't that much difference with them or without. I have talked to a couple guys who have experimented with adding and taking out ribs, popsicle sticks, turtles, etc. and there was not a lot of power made or lost. On the street it can affect drivability, but I never had any issues, but I did run a lot of converter and gear.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

This is just a personal opinion.
That is an early manifold, designed by Jack Clifford. The ribs are supposed to help with fuel distribution. The later manifolds, without the ribbs, were done as a cost cutting measure (I think), and not under Jacks watch.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

I would run it and read the spark plugs to see if it's working well or not.

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Joshua

I would leave the ribs and try it first, then maybe grind later. I agree with Charlie and Dennis.

You will be hard pressed to find much evidence of mixture distribution problems with a well tuned Slant and that intake. Slight variations, yes - problems, no.

For higher HP engines, these have been shown to be the best performers (HP makers) of ANY aftermarket, single-carburetor intake. Custom intakes and weber 3X2s can be better in certain applications, but you need to know what you are doing. Offy and everything else gives you maybe more low end and definitely less mid-top end than the Clifford.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

I had planned on running it and seeing how things went without any mods. I was just curious to see if there were any "must-do" things first.
I will either run a small 4 bbl or maybe make a plate and use a 350 Holley 2bbl. I might make two plates and try offsetting the 2bbl to see if that makes any difference.
If the dang bearings (crank) would get here, I could get this thing together and start experimenting.
Only 7 weeks to Mason-Dixon.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

I really like the Holley 500 2bbl or Edel 500 4bbl on street/strip Slant that is not super wild. Holley 500 2bbl has a near-ideal accel pump shot/rate/setup for almost any 225 buildup - great drivability and great 60 fts.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

You know what stinks? the 350 cfm Holley 2bbl carbs are more expensive than the 500cfm versions and I just got a 350 cfm 2bbl because I thought the 500 would be too big.
good times...

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Can you return/swap it? I really like the 500.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

I doubt you could get one any cheaper than this, but I rarely see them more expensive than this. Not mine!



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-Carburetor-500-CFM-Maunal-Choke-4412-C-Factory-Remanufactured-/262308789803?hash=item3d12d27e2b:g:keYAAOSwDuJW0K5I&vxp=mtr

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

The 500 2bbl is a great drag racing carb, Explosive hole shot, but it isn't for a driver in my experience,.The 350 can be streetable. (With modification of course.)
Never seen a 500 work without a big (50cc) pump shot, so be ready for that.

I'm sure Lou has a recipe for the 500, I'd love to hear about. I couldn't get a 500 to run well on a streetable package. Always had a dead spot to chase around. could move it, but not remove it.

I'm always ready to learn new tips and tricks!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I had good luck with the 4412 500 2bbl on my Barracuda "race car"(170 cid). I don't really reccommend it for a street car. Barrels are too big, for low speed driveability. It can be made to work, but a small 4 bbl is better. When comparing carb cfm, the Holley 500 2bbl, flows almost the same as a Holley 390 4 bbl. The smaller primary barrels on the 390 result in better streetability. For a "built race motor", a 500 cfm or larger (depending on how wild) 4 bbl would be my choice

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

I bought a 500 2bbl in 1993 with the 50 cc pump. No mods except jets and great driveability. Yes, you need the 50 cc accel pump for sure. Oh, I drilled a couple of 1/2" holes in the choke flap so as not to overchoke when cold (electric/auto).

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Do you recall which metering block it had? There are a wide range of blocks, with major differences in emulsions and bleeds.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing