Slant *        6        Forum
Home Home Home
The Place to Go for Slant Six Info!
Click here to help support the Slant Six Forum!
It is currently Fri Mar 29, 2024 4:16 am

All times are UTC-07:00




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 37 posts ]  Go to page Previous 1 2 3 Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 6:48 pm 
Offline
Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 8284
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
275/50/15 Nitto Drag radials. 26" tall I think

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
Image
12.70 @ 104.6
Image


Top
   
 Post subject: x2
PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 7:46 pm 
Offline
Board Sponsor
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9760
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
Quote:
275/50/15 Nitto Drag radials. 26" tall I think



Correct, I run the same drag radials, and the true diameter is closer to 25.83"... but once they get heated up it's about 26" or so... they are a good tire... but you have to have a wheel well to run them.


Top
   
 Post subject: carb size
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 12:25 pm 
Offline
SL6 Racer

Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2002 8:49 pm
Posts: 99
Location: Longview Washington
Car Model:
Andrew Want to try out a 600 Holley ? I've got one if you want to try it ?


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 8:54 am 
Offline
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:27 am
Posts: 42
Location: Battle Ground, WA
Car Model:
I'm good Dave. I have tried both a Holley 600 and 650 in the past. I like the 450 on there now.

Andrew


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 7:41 am 
Offline
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:27 am
Posts: 42
Location: Battle Ground, WA
Car Model:
Completed relocating the spring hangers and installed a set of SS Springs. Did a full wheel tub and will be running Hoosier 225/50-15 Drag Radials. The Mopar 8 3/4 is narrowed and installed so are the Competition Engineering shocks. I fabricated a set of slapper bars (because I always thought they looked cool) and also fabricated a anti roll bar. All that's left for the rear are ordering the narrowed axles and Wilwood Dynalite disc brake kit.

I'm running a full spool and 3.55 gears. I know I need at least 3.91 but I'm going update them later this year.

I've decided to run this engine as is and I'm working on a nitrous long rod replacement engine

Andrew


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 7:55 am 
Offline
Board Sponsor & Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16453
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
Sounds like great progress, Andrew! You can go to a bigger tire, if needed, but those will likely be fine. Not sure anti-roll bar will be needed, if you want to cut down complexity...

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 9:15 am 
Offline
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:27 am
Posts: 42
Location: Battle Ground, WA
Car Model:
Finally finished Dart Vader and took it out to PIR last night. With no engine mods this year and just the suspension, rear end, and tires I'm running a bit quicker.

Previous Best (Race gas)
60': 2.136
330': 5.966
1/8: 9.160 @ 76.82 MPH

Current Best (92 octane)
60': 2.058
330': 5.840
1/8: 9.029 @ 76.89 MPH

It's a bit hesitant off the line and the engine is dieseling when shut off. Haven't had these issues in the past with 92 octane. I'm running 32 degrees total advance and I think the plugs are gapped at 36. I'll check the plugs today to see what they look like. Any suggestions?

Andrew


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 11:37 am 
Offline
Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
Posts: 5835
Location: Burton BC canada
Car Model:
Id try 2 degrees less advance.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 1:08 pm 
Offline
Board Sponsor & Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16453
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
Or even try 4 or 6 deg less advance. Do 2 runs at each timing setting to get backups and see how it changes.

Do you have a WB O2 sensor in the car, like this one? Fantastic for mixture tuning.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-4110

I only use AEM in my cars - rock solid.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines


Top
   
 Post subject: I'd...
PostPosted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 5:57 pm 
Offline
Board Sponsor
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9760
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
Quote:
It's a bit hesitant off the line and the engine is dieseling when shut off. Haven't had these issues in the past with 92 octane. I'm running 32 degrees total advance and I think the plugs are gapped at 36. I'll check the plugs today to see what they look like. Any suggestions?


Make sure that you have disconnected the vacuum advance and plugged it for racing... Mechanical advance should not be over 30 degrees total for this task.

Hesitation off the line and dieseling can point to a lean out.... dieseling can indicate too much advance, hot carbon deposits in the chamber causing pre-ignition, but most likely your throttle plates are not fully seated when closed (or an air leak someplace).

If you find no leak at the carb base or manifold, you might make sure that your acc. pump shot is not delayed in coming on when the throttle lever is pulled, if the plates don't fully seat you may need a stronger return spring......


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 4:20 am 
Offline
Board Sponsor & Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16453
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
How much spread between initial advance and final mechanical advance? (vac adv disco'ed)

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 8:09 am 
Offline
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:27 am
Posts: 42
Location: Battle Ground, WA
Car Model:
Not sure what the spread is between initial and final timing. I'll check that today. I noticed that the distributor cap coil plug in was fried. Time for new cap and maybe wires.

I pulled the carb and I did notice that the secondary plates where not fully closed. I'll look at that a bit closer. I pulled it off to remove the divider plate that's installed in the manifold just to see if it actually makes any difference.

The plugs looked ok, maybe a little rich. Others have noticed that there is a bit of black smoke off the line. I've installed a size smaller squirter in the secondaries.

Might head to the track tomorrow to do some test and tune and play with the timing (the church kicked me out of their parking lot). I also installed a manual valve body in the transmission and need to play with different shift points. Right now I'm shifting at 4800 rpms.

Andrew


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 9:07 am 
Offline
Board Sponsor & Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16453
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
Wow, that is shifting low. Are you sure your tach is set to 6 cyl? You are doing very well if you can shift at 4800 and still run 9.0s in the 1/8th. I would try the (total mech adv) timing changes first, then proceed to other things. You can put in a different dist later, but full mech advance will be the main thing that matters if you really have a 2500 RPM converter. You can mess with advance spread later. Basically, you need to change exactly one thing at a time or you won't learn much about what will make (and keep) your car faster.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 5:10 pm 
Offline
Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 8284
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
Make sure that you have disconnected the vacuum advance and plugged it for racing


What is the reason for this? I think Lou and Greg mentioned that to me at the Mason Dixon race when I was having troubles. I have always just left mine hooked up knowing that it is not really doing anything at WOT. But it sounds like it may be causing some problem that I should know about. Help me understand. :lol: :lol:

Thanks

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
Image
12.70 @ 104.6
Image


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 5:38 pm 
Offline
Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
If the carb is too small, it becomes a restriction at high rpm (A bad air cleaner setup can do it too).

With the restriction, you get a vacuum at high rpm and then vacuum advance at WOT....................

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 37 posts ]  Go to page Previous 1 2 3 Next

All times are UTC-07:00


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited