Well i've been on this site and forabodiesonly for a while getting help building up my slant six powered roadster that will be a street hot rod that I also race at some vintage events. The race events will include 1/8 mile asphalt drags, gravel drags and oval dirt tracks. I may also run it at a street course in Coatesville PA. The group is called Vintage Eliminators and includes hot rods with 4 cyl, flathead v8s, inline 6 cyl and early ohv v8s. Build thread is here:https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/slant-six-roadster-build.526179/

This was my first time going down the track ever and it was a blast. I scrambled Saturday to get the car ready for the event last Sunday at South Mountain Dragway in Boiling Springs PA. I still have lots of improvements to make on the car and adjustments to make the car run better. I was not able to hold the brake and get the rpms up slightly to launch because the car would cut out if i floored it. Even if I floored it withoout reving the car would cut out.

Any tips to improve this? With babying the car off the line i ran a best of 9.89 in the ⅛ at 69 mph

Brief description of the drivetrain:
Couldn’t find a chart of info for the alternator side block pad numbers so any help on what year my engine is would be appreciated.

68-75 5 freeze plug block casting number 2806830
Pad behind the alternator reads “G225R 2 12” I don’t seen any other numbers but couldn’t clean it well

The engine is stock to my knowledge. I installed a 2 barrel super six intake and a NOS Bendix Stromberg WW carb. The vac advance is hooked up to the port coming out of the base plate. There is another port higher on the carb that I have plugged. Will try to attach photo. There are 2 holes for the accelerator pump arm to go into it is on the rearward hole.

Timing is set to 0 degrees which I read off of a thread on here.

I’m getting about 19” of vacuum from the port on the base of the carb at 700/750 rpms. I need to warm the car up again and fine tune the air mixture screws to make sure I have them right.

Transmission is a 904 with the kickdown connected and setup with a lokar cable

Points were last set up using a dwell meter and were set to whatever spec i found on this site. I just can’t remember what that was.

Let me know any other information that may be helpful. Any tips in getting the car to not cut out would be greatly appreciated as I’m still learning about the best way to adjust cars and engine setups.

Thanks!
Gene

Gene,
Glad you are getting the chance to enjoy the roadster. It looks like a lot of fun.
According to the Slant Six bible (Doug Dutra's book), You have a 1971, regular gas 225 slant built on Feb 12.
For my money, one of the first things I would do is an HEI conversion.
Then, reset the ignition timing. The distributor vacuum line should connect to a vacuum port that increases vacuum as the throttle opens (more than likely it is the one higher up on the carb).
Make certain your valve lash is properly set as well. A good ballpark number would be 0.010" Intake and 0.020" exhaust.
That about covers most of the things that you can do without engine disassembly.
I am sure others on this site can chime in as well.
Post some pics when you can.
-Mattman

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Thanks i forgot the code info was in the dutra book which i have. I have thought about the HEI ignition and may get to it later on. I just wanted to get the car up and going first with the points. I'm pretty sure the vacuum is hooked up to manifold vacuum now and will test to see if the other port is ported. When switching the vacuum line to ported what would be a good setting for initial timing? The car was running alright on the street hooked up to manifold vacuum and 0 degrees initial.

I will also try to readjust the valves this weekend

Was timing set with the vacuum line DISconnected?

_________________
-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

yup and that vac port plugged. Obviously the rpms picked up when i plugged the vac line back up since it had vacuum to advance the timing

Having trouble uploading the photos because of the file size but here is a youtube link to one of my runs

https://youtu.be/deNL-9ZuG-s

Well I adjusted the tappets today .010 intake and .020 exhaust while running once engine was warmed up. Then I set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC with the vac adv hose disconnected and then reconnected it to the ported vacuum port.

And tadaaa I can now load up the converter and leave without stalling! There is still a slight hesitation so I will recheck the points gap.

Fingers crossed the weather is great for April 29th so I can head to Eastside Speedway in Waynesboro, VA for the next race. If any of you are near that track you should come by to see some nostalgia drag racing and give me some tips on the engine haha.

It might want a little more initial timing. Keep plugging away.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Sounds like a great time and a great car! Wish was around on April 29, as I am only 2 hrs from that VA track and have never been there. Best of luck and hope to meet you soon. You should try your best to come to Mason-Dixon dragway on May 7-8 for our Slant 6 drag race. A bunch of us will be there with various types of Slant 6 racecars. I might even bring my Slant-powered 34 Dodge.

Slant on,
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Just a thought. I'm not up on the rules for nostalgia type racing, But might have a problem running at some "normal" drag races. I didn't notice a roll bar.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

A roll bar is in the plans so i can eventually run shoulder belts but it is not required in my group/ the tracks we race at unless we run faster than 8.50 in the 1/8 mile

I will try adding a little more timing and see if that changes the hesistation. Hopefully this winter I can get the roll bar in so i can come to Mason Dixon.

So I wasn't able to work on the rollbar over winter but may this spring. I've been reading some threads on FABO and came across someone having a hesitation at initial throttle and the problem ended up being the idle circuit was to lean. I'm going to very gently turn the screws back in to count how many turns out I am then make slight adjustments to richen it to see how that affects it. When I ran at Eastside speedway I was having the stalling issue and pulling the coke out helped so I think I'm on the right track. I'm going to find a rural road to test on tomorrow just to see how it launches. After reading some other racing threads in here I have lots of room for improvement looking at my times haha. Especially given the weight of my car 1860lbs. I also noticed last fall I had a decent amount of slop in my timing chain so I replaced that recently so maybe that will allow the timing to be more accurate. I could move the crank more than 5 degrees without the distributor rotor moving. Here is my thread on FABO if anyone wants to read on about the other updates I made.

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/th ... 179/page-4

Sorry for the periods instead of spaces. My fat thumbs aren't great on the phone.

I made some adjustments today and here are the results. I've been making notes on paper and only changing one thing at a time. 1971 225 stock except for super six intake and Stromberg WW3 carb

Settings idle mixture screws 1.25 turns out this gave me the best vacuum at 19inches
Idle set at 700 car was warmed up and at operating temp
Timing 10 btdc
Accelerator pump arm on rear hole

Tried holding brake and launching at 1000rpm car wanted to stall
Car wanted to stall out when stomping gas from idle too
Did fine if I was easy on it

Change: moved accel pump to front hole
Stalling was way worse
Had to be super light.on the pedal to take off at all
So.I moved the arm back.to the rear hole.

Looking at the arm and lever I think the rear hole is less fuel and front hole is more fuel

Next change timing 5 btdc.
Still wanted to stall unless I was easy on it
Hard.to say if it was better or worse than 10 btdc

I noticed my new exhaust is blueing so I wonder if my jets are too lean or is this the right.amount of blueing. I will post a photo of that and the number 4 plug to see what y'all think. I think it's a little lean looking. White on one side and tan on the other.

This is the same plug, number 4