I'm working on my external oil pump set up and made the bracket for on the block where the pump used to be. In the picture where the X is I have a question. That is where the line coming from the oil pump to the block will go . Do you center the A/N fitting there or offset it to one side. The reason I ask is that there is a hump in the block right in the center and I did not know if that would be an issue or not. I did not think so but thought I would ask before I drill the hole. Thanks.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I see no reason why it needs to be centered. Can you line it up with the port?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Rick, I'm just going by memory, and might be wrong, but isn't that the output of the pump to the main oil gallery?
Just went out and looked, and that is the feed to the main oil gallery. The lower square hole to the front side of the engine is the suction (pump inlet) side. I'm thinking it would be better to have the fitting centered, as the oil has to flow, toward the front and rear in approx equal volumms.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Yes you are correct. I thought if centered it would distribute more evenly front to rear but just thought I'd ask. Probably either way would be fine. The external pump should have plenty of pressure and volume. If the AN fitting threads in too deep is what I was kind of worried about. If it sticks in past my plate I can always weld it in and grind off anything past the plate. Probably worried about nuttin! Thanks

PS Charlie I had that worded poorly. I went back and changed it. It made sense in my brain, but on paper it was easily taken wrong!!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Its probably not an issue. The pump cavity kicks up there for the driven shaft to pass thru the block. Center in theory is ideal, but might not work due to the subject in this post.

I would go for it wherever it lines up without clearance issues.

Anodized an fitting welding to aluminum plate will be tricky.

The one on ruster is pipe thread and because the plate is so thin you have to be careful to not tap too far as pipe taps are tapered toward the top of their travel.

Best of luck,

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks Greg. Yes I figure to tap it a little "shallow". If it goes in too deep before getting tight I will blast the back side that sticks through and weld it. I used 3/8" plate.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Could you weld a threaded bung onto the plate?
Then you can attach whatever fitting/hose necessary.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel Offenhauser, Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

I would locate the hole/line in the easiest place for routing. That cavity will be filled completely with oil under high pressure when running so the location should not matter for flow/distribution.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

The one on the Challenger is centered. The fitting is welded in and flush on the back side. It is thick steel plate. It drove Howard nuts! He trimmed off the corners to save a couple ounces and make himself feel better. He will probably make an aluminum one on his CNC machine before too long... Lots of ounces that can still come off the Challenger.

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Mine is made of AL - No heavy Steel plate there - THat's a waste of mass!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I don't see the need for the welding hassles with an AN fitting to an alum plate.


Would not an off the shelf AN O ring straight thread fitting resolve these issues?