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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 8:04 pm 
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Supercharged
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So this has been asked over and over again, But in my opinion no one has done a really good job of documenting what is needed or the Parts they used with part#'s on how to accomplish this swap.



First of All there folks that Have done this swap successfully into a slant cars for years, I will first share some links to their documentation... These folks are helping me to do my swap, however the information is scattered about on the forum here and it's a bit of a treasure hunt to find it all..

Links to source Info:
In no particular order..
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=45975
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=3874
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=14969
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=41775
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=42988
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=42602
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=34077

Okay, enough with the prerequsite Information.. Look at those Links and if you read and study enough you probably do not even need this post.

Here are the Problems you will run into and need to Address; I will Give photo Documentation as well as part Numbers as I go along, some parts will be bespoke,will need to be fabricated etc.. I will give Measurements, etc as I can.
Once I get the whole Shebang completed I will Put all of the Parts Needed into a quick summary or edit here!


*1---Donor Transmission:
Get yourself a Ford T5 Transmission from something that is ~1984-2004 Exact year is not important. Make sure it works and has all the typical good used transmission Mojo going on. Or buy a brand new ford performance one from summit..
Ford Performance Parts Super-Duty T-5 Transmissions M-7003-Z
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms- ... /make/ford
The Trans should have a 1 1/16" (1.0625)" Ø x 10 Spline Input shaft. The trans's that have the 0.670"Ø Pilot Bearing Size are Probably a bit more easy to work with in this regard.
Image
The Trans will have a 28 Spline Slip yoke output shaft. I bought a Slip yoke new, or you can get one from a ford ranger etc at the Junk yard... Lots of Ford Products seem to have used that 28 spline output from Dana / Spicer over the years..
Slip Yoke Info - 2-3-4871X
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-2-3-4871x
Image

*2--- Clutch / Pressure Plate Considerations:
There are a number of options here. Back in the beginning of the century we used to call up McLeod and they would sell you what you needed. I am not sure if that is the case any more. I am not posting bespoke McLeod Part #'s as they tend to die away and then you are stuck doing all the legwork again.

I would suggest Getting the Best Clutch / pressure plate you can for the '87-88 Ford Thunderbird Turbocoupe - This is a commonly available Clutch Disk or Kit from a number of Outlets (I will not Be using this exact Part in my conversion but it's what I suggest for you)
These Kits have an 8 7/8" - 9 1/4" Ø Disk with the 1 1/16" x 10 Spline hub.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/par ... n_9-125-in
I would get a dual friction disc if possible... It has Kevlar type buttons or pucks on one side and an organic facing on the other. They are made by centerforce, spec, Exedy, South Bend, RAM, Zoom, LuK, etc.
Image
*** If you go this Route.. With the clutch Kit I suggest You will need to Have your Flywheel Drilled to use this ford Turbo Clutch Cover. Take the pressure plate and your flywheel to a local competent machine shop and have this done.

You also can just try using a stock Slant 6 9" Pressure plate and cover, specifically if you have the clamp load Set higher by a clutch rebuilder.


*3---Throw out Bearing:
If you can, start with a car that Has 3 pedals from the factory.. If not you can use an automatic car for your project, but you have to swap the pedal Box, and then decide if you want to collect all the linkages or use a hydraulic TOB.. If I were doing this swap into an automatic trans Donor car/truck then I would use the Hydraulic TOB.
I am documenting this with the 'ma MoPar linkage setup for now.. I will edit later, because I will probably have to go to a hydraulic TOB when I put headers on my car.


If you want to run your stock or stockiish Mopar Clutch Fork, then Use this Throwout Bearing or equivalent... The Part is listed for say a 1969 Charger with the Hemi Engine and an A833 which has the 18 spline Input Shaft. The 18 Spline A833 also a larger Sliding collar for the TOB.
Get a National DP1625C or equivalent. Commonly found on Rock auto, Summit etc.
Image

Comparison between the Stock 1"x 23 Spline Common Chrysler TOB and the 18 Spline Hemi / T5 Bearing
Image

Image

T5 / Ford TOB I.D. = ~1.441"Ø
Image

OE Chrysler Car Trans 1960's - 1980's TOB I.D. = ~1.257"Ø fits almost all manual trans's of the era except for the 18 Spline HEMI / 440 6Bbl A-833 Trans.
Image


*4---Bellhousing:
You will need to get an adapter Plate Made for your Bellhousing to accept the Bearing retainer of the T-5 Trans and also this adapter Plate will allow the transmission to bolt up to the bellhousing.
These are readily available for other platforms;
https://www.hotrodworks.com/product-cat ... -adapters/
but not for the slant, so one needs to be made locally or Check with Wilcap,
http://www.wilcap.com/
I am sure they will whip one up for you too.
** There was a Group Buy for Modified Bellhousings that went on about 15 years ago that Makes this swap a heck of alot more straightforward. (I will be using one in my project)

Here is a pictorial Description of what you will be doing or need to get made.
**Start By getting one of the 1976-1987 F Body, D series Truck or B series Van OD Bell Housings. They are readily Available on the internet, Junk yards, Swap meets etc. The Bellhousing will be Aluminum and have a 5.125"Ø Bearing Retainer Opening it will have multiple bolt patterns to accept Chrysler 3 speeds, A833'e etc.

Here is a comparison of one of the Group Buy Bells (it's on the Left. Steel Adapter Plate Added to it.) and the same Bell with Sam P.'s Aluminum Plate Grafted on... Same Idea Different execution.
Image

Image

Group Buy Adapter Plate:
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Group buy Bell inside..
Image

Image

Sam's Adapter (a Little Less Refined but works)
Image

Image

Image

Image

Finally you need to Indicate the Bell housing to the Crankshaft.
Image
This will keep the trans Shafts quiet and will allow better longevity due to not putting excess wear on the bearings. This process is well documented all over the internet and youtube so I am not going to excessive depth to cover the process here.
Many of the offset Dowels available for this process are the wrong size by Being +0.004" too large.
You can buy the correct ones here:
https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html
I got essentially the same parts from summit racing, but they are .500" so I had to futz with both sides of the pin on the lathe with a file and 220 Grit emery cloth to dial them back to .496"
Summit Racing Parts:
SUM192004
SUM192007
SIM192008

Image

Image


*5---Crankshaft Pocket / Input Bearing Interface:
Get one of these Mustang / Ford Pilot Bearing Assembly's : Timken FC68329 or equivalent (for use with that 0.670"Ø Input Shaft)
Image
Image

*Depending on what Slant 6 Crank you have.. get an Adapter Ring Made like this.. It allows the Small register slant Crank or Large Register Slant crank to use the Bearing Package in this documentation. I will put a technical drawing together later on and post it.

Large Pocket Crank: (1968-1987) Production Cranks:
Input Bearing adapter Ring
OD = ~1.817
ID = ~1.378
Depth = ~1" ( can me milled down if your Input shaft on the Trans is Longer)

The Whole Shebang gets Pressed into the adapter straightaway out of the box! Easy.
Image

Large Pocket Ring Adapter OD:
Image

Large Pocket Ring Adapter ID:
Image

Depth for Small pocket or Large Pocket Adapters:
Image

Small Pocket Crank: (1960-1967) Production Cranks:
Input Bearing adapter Ring Info.. More steps than the Big Pocket Crank
Press the Small bearing out of the metal housing that came in the Timken Box Pictured above.
Image

Result after pressing Little Bearing out of the Outer Housing for Fords..... Hang onto the innner needle Bearing assembly.
Image

Dimensions..
OD = ~1.555"
ID = ~0.938"
Depth = ~1" ( can me milled down if your Input shaft on the Trans is Longer)

Small Pocket Ring OD:
Image

Small Pocket Ring ID:
Image

Press it Home..(The one on the Right Side in the Picture Below)
Image

*6---Trans Tunnel / Upper Lower Cross members


*7---Driveshaft / U Joints


*8---Speedometer Cable / Sensor Considerations
There are a few options here..
1. GPS Speedometer:
No sensors, calibration or cables... Change Tire sizes, Rear Gear Ratios Etc and it's always correct and no futzing with it once you are setup.
2. Electronic Sensor / Electronic / Hot Rod Speedo:
Lots of support for this on Speedway, Jegs, Summit Racing etc. ( I will be trying this on my build as I want to Keep my Dart's Original Gauges for now. so I am going to get a Signal from the 2000 T5 Trans that will drive a box.. That Box will mechanical spin the OE 1964 Speedo. Not cheap for what it is but we'll see how it goes.


3. Modified O.E. type cable Speedo:
(Probably the Most Difficult to setup and get right) Requires a T5 with an actual Speedo Drive gear (older Transmissions Probably 1990 or earlier? Not Verified Just a Guess.)


*9---Final Notes and Parts List

Some other good Resources to familiarize yourself with the platform and Identify the ratios you have.
https://www.moderndriveline.com/the-man ... of-the-t5/
http://www.mongosgarage.com/tech/t5/T5Numbers.PDF


Hope this is helpful.. Will be adding to it and finishing up as my actual swap Progresses.
Greg

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Last edited by Greg Ondayko on Mon May 25, 2020 5:53 pm, edited 6 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 9:00 pm 
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YES! I'm hoping to use a T-5 on the roadster build. This will be a very handy thread. Thank you.


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2020 2:29 am 
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Thanks for compiling all this info, Greg. Hopefully this will encourage some folks to go ahead. Nice to see the small crank hub adapters worked just like I thought.

Best,
Lou

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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2020 2:36 am 
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Yes those adapter rings are nice. Thanks for thinking those out 15 years ago, Lou.


Greg

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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2020 5:56 am 
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You betcha. Those milled flats make it easier to pull out too. If someone wanted to duplicate the adapter plate setup, I could lend out my spare bellhousing with plate. I will use it in the next year or two, to upgrade the 62 Valiant to the T5. The OD 4spd is OK, but man you miss that extra gear on the way to direct 1:1 drive... Seymour really wanted to try this 10 yrs ago, so it's time.

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2020 9:50 am 
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I also have an extra one.
I probably will use Sam P.'s bell as his plate was AL instead of steel... Lighter..
I will see if I can get the adapter plate drawn up for all to use or maybe if there is enough interest, Someone can start a separate T5 Group buy 2.0 thread and we'll hash it out there.


Greg

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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2020 12:11 am 
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Greg Ondayko wrote:
I will see if I can get the adapter plate drawn up for all to use or maybe if there is enough interest, Someone can start a separate T5 Group buy 2.0 thread and we'll hash it out there.
It's about time for that. OEM manual transmissions are trending to be a historical relic.


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2020 2:18 pm 
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Car Model*: 1986 Mitsubishi Starion
I'm in the middle of bolting a T5 (96 Mustang V6) to a SlantSix (not going in to a car that ever came with either) and would love it if someone either made an adapter, or would let me use their part or drawing to have more made. I've got a machine shop lined up to do these, just need to get them a prototype part or work with them to prototype one. If I could skip that step, it would be a tremendous help. I've also reached out to Wilcap about making at least one flywheel. I'm sure it would be better to have them make multiple.

Greg or Lou, if you would be willing to let me use your extra, I'd be willing to pay a deposit for it, just so you could be sure to get it back.

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Last edited by slowquest on Mon May 25, 2020 2:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2020 2:20 pm 
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Also curious, what work was needed to be done to the aluminum bellhousing to work with the adapter? I seem to remember reading that the bellhousings needed to be sent out on the last groupbuy.

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2020 3:49 am 
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Where are you located, slowquest? Probably it is best to just send you pics and dimensions.

I thought the most reliable way would be to attach the adapter plates to the bellhousing with locator dowels, and then do final machining. Thus, everyone sent me their bells, I carried them to a machine shop (back in NC when I lived there) and they built, installed, and final machined the plates. I would not do this again as it was a ton of work.

If you get Wilcap to do a run of alum flywheels, I am pretty sure I would be interested in buying one.

Lou

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2020 6:06 am 
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I'm in Cincinnati, Ohio

I was hoping for a 10" clutch, and if I remember correctly, the aluminum flywheel was only for a 9" clutch? I'm still waiting on a response from them.

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2020 7:20 am 
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The wilcap flywheels we got that were made un AL were only able to support a 9-9.25"ø clutch.

If you want a 10 inch or larger clutch then a stock or McLeod flywheel
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=48219
is needed or a different bell housing that will allow a v8 LA engine flywheel



Greg

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2020 7:23 am 
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Would be great if Wilcap can make the friction surface extend to 10". However, I have found that a good 9" clutch can handle up to 250 HP or so (high 13s in a 2900 lb car on fairly sticky tires - 1.8 60 ft). Those good 9" units can be hard to find, though. Let me think about lending my spare BH/plate... I am fixin' to use that, so not sure. Greg, are you thinking of making a CAD file for this thing?

Lou

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2020 10:22 am 
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I will be going with the billet steel Wilcap flywheel and the McLeod clutch/pressure plate.

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2020 11:27 am 
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Dart270 wrote:
Greg, are you thinking of making a CAD file for this thing?

Lou


Yes I can, but it would be off in the future.

It also might be easier / better for someone to 3d scan / Faro arm it.

Greg

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