As slowly as I'm progressing, maybe they will have it for sale when I am ready. LOL

_________________
Rob

It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.

This may have been mentioned, I skimmed after reading post #1.

Would it be beneficial to the community to have these adapters made? Are these currently being sourced locally anytime someone is doing this swap? The plates themselves look relatively easy, once we had a usable file. I have a laser, CNC mill, etc and wouldn't mind making a batch of these if beneficial and if someone had a file, or a sample part to work from.

If interested, lets talk. Neat to see these builds!

Thanks for your interest and your offer. There are a bunch of plates floating around that have not been used. Gillwelding.com has been making them on a batch basis, and they may have some in stock, so please check them if you want one soon or want to see what they have done.

Cheers,
Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Not to jump off topic,
But if Ardentindustries is interested in producing a Slant Six performance product, a few that come to mind are:
1) a two piece timing chain cover, to allow cam timing changes.
2) a performance baffled-side kick out oil pan.
3) down pipes for Dutra Duals
4) a tall - fabricated valve cover
5) the ever popular aluminum cylinder head.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

John, Gill posted a pic of #3 on FB yesterday.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I feel somewhat accomplished, I have done a few of those things.

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

A bell housing for a 10 1/2" clutch that doesn't cost a few mortgage payments would be nice.

I have done #3 for personal stuff and wouldn't want to get into that market. To many variations and to many complainers.

I have been ghosting on the forum in recent weeks after years of life getting in the way of working on my valiant. I was a member of the 2005 group buy for the bellhousing all those years ago, but the car it was destined for and the BH are both long gone along with most of my old parts stash. I have decided to convert my remaining 1965 904 equipped valiant to manual trans and can't remember a few things.

Is it necessary to start with the 833 OD bellhousing? Is this mainly for machining or is it for flywheel selection. Can normal 3/4 bells be used if they are bored out.

I have spent the last 4 years with a manual trans daily driver and don't see myself having as much fun with an auto at this point. I have access to a metal lathe for some small level fabricating and a non CNC milling machine so I could probably whip up a single custom adapter for my own personal use but it is nice to see how much the hobby has progressed in the past 15 years.

You could use the ubiquitous 3 speed passenger car bell housing or the more rare '64-'66ish heavy cast iron piece, but the problem with those is that they would need the bearing support hole machined to accept a T5 or T5 adapter.

The od bell housing does not have this issue as the id of the input bearing support is much larger.

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

That is good to know. I thought that was the case but I couldn't remember. Since you made this nice swap resource would you mind adding some of this to the BH section in the first post.

Hello,

In post #1, point #4 it says what bellhousing to begin with.
I do need to add the gill welding information to that first post, so I should get back there to edit it.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

We began the install of the T5 in Ryan's race car. When we use the new T5 input bearing it drops into the crankshaft adapter freely. It does not press in. By my measurement it is just about .001-.002 larger than the bearing. It is supposed to be driven in, correct? My question is, will the adapter inside diameter shrink the .001-.002 when it is driven into the crankshaft. Thanks for your help.

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

No it will not.

I had this trouble too, but I did not realize it until a tearddown and removal of the transmission.

I might suggest mushrooming the ID of the crank pocket adapter or using some shim stock and loctite or get a new crank pocket adapter made with a smaller ID.

I believe I loctited in mine in the second time and that seemed to work well. On a race car with skookum vibrations, I would get it right with a good interference fit.


You just need someone with a lathe to make some quick work out of some bar stock for that.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Oh, weird. Where did this adapter ring come from, Gill? The ones I had made 18-20 yrs ago were interference fit and I have used 2-3 of them. Yes, they should press in and interference fit. I would not trust loctite, but maybe JB Weld?? I assume you have the big hub crank and can use the T5 pilot bearing as bought and not have to drive out the bearing part?

Hmmm.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

No this is Seymours race engine with the"Small" register crank. We have to drive out the needle bearing on the Ford adapter. The Kit we have has 2 adapters with it. The "small" crank adapter looks like it is the the right OD, but it looks to be just about .002 to big on the ID.

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6