How does this sound to you guys?

1.70 intake valves, 1.44 exuast valves, keepers, retainers, 340 valve springs (all from mopar). Minimal porting and no polishing. Seals on the intake side only, shave .060 off the head, and hardened valve seats.

Anything I'm missing? Anything I need to change/revise? I would like whatever setup I decide to go with to work with 89-91 octane gas, and like everyone else, I want the most power for my slant. Thanks

I'm sorry I forgot to mention this is a street setup.

Check your piston to deck hight measure the camber volume(Idon't know how much material was removed or how high the valves sit) measure bore and stroke then do the math. I'm running egge valves 1.75&1.50 with polished chambers,I ended up takeing .100 off the head. personaly I enjoyed doing the grinding,must have, cause over a number of weeks I think I loged close to 50 hours worth. My machinist encouraged me, he said "you know its the work on the head that lets the cam do its job" I'm running on 92 octain, Ive passed the polution tests and getting good mileage.bruce

magicalbus@hotmail.com

For a "long haul" street engine, I would use the short umbrella type stem seals on the exhaust valves.

One "trick" I use is to completly clean-out the head's water jackets. Pull-out all the casting "core wires" you can get to, then acid clean-out all the scale and crud. (put a cast iron thermostat cover on up-side-down & plug the heater / temp sending holes. Level-out the head, chambers-up and fill the water passages with a acid solution, let it bubble for a few days the rinse & nutrualize)

I also run a tap through all the threaded holes and do some general deburring, focused on oil return.
Be sure to have the head crack-checked before you start and re-surfaced after all the other porting is done. Hopefully the guides are good on the head you have.
Best to use a "later" (post 68) revised chamber head.
Lot's of performance is made (or killed) right at the valve seat, both on the valve (back-cutting) and in the head. (multi-angle with blending)

Take your time, do one small section on all the ports, then go to another small section (or "cut") for all. (work with the exhaust and intakes as seperate groups) This seems to work better the working "top to bottom" on a single port before moving to the next. Making-up some cardboard templates also helps keep the work uniform port to port.
Hope that helps.
DD