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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 6:26 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:52 am
Posts: 27
Location: Santa Clara ca ..
Car Model*: 1970 Dart Swinger ( mod top clone ) Slanty w/auto
Ok so what im going to TRY to do is take pics and let you guy know how ez or not it goes on ... as well as cover tuning ..
What i got is the Fitech 400hp EFI with the frame mounted pump and the return hose set up ... I think its kit # 31003
I all so got the fast fuel EZ EFI bracket and the Locar 24" throttle cable as well as there 904 kick down cable
All that coming to $1,281xx with CA tax :(

Any ? ask and i will try to give you answers.. This is my first time doing this so input is welcome


So here is a link to the unboxing pics ... the same link will as so have WIP pics as i go ...

http://s169.photobucket.com/user/ramcuda/slideshow/EFI


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 5:09 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:52 am
Posts: 27
Location: Santa Clara ca ..
Car Model*: 1970 Dart Swinger ( mod top clone ) Slanty w/auto
had a little time today to work on the injection ...

got the return fitting plumed into the tank ( little low i think )... SEE PIC ///
and did a but of fitting and some wire running mock up ..
and im going to be able to run the stock throttle cable .. SEE PIC..

https://beta.photobucket.com/u/ramcuda/ ... fc5c6fc15c


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2018 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
Posts: 1394
Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model*: 58 Plymouth Plaza 2dr, 63 Valiant Signet 200 2dr
I've used FiTech before on a 455... it worked beautifully.

I look forward to seeing your results on the Slant. I have a 4 barrel Offenhauser manifold in the works which I plan to put a FiTech unit on for a blow-thru Turbo.

~THOR~

_________________
1958 Plymouth Plaza 2 door Club Sedan
1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 2 door Hardtop

Find a better way to turn perfectly good fuel into noise; I dare ya.
VP - Cherry City Bombers Car Club
http://www.bomberscc.com


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 12:46 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:52 am
Posts: 27
Location: Santa Clara ca ..
Car Model*: 1970 Dart Swinger ( mod top clone ) Slanty w/auto
Hi all

Well all plumbed up and ready to hook up the 4 wires and turn the key ...

So things to note at this point ...

1.PLUMBING
jumping onto the stock fuel line and return lines speeds thing up and no worries of having rubber hose under the car to get tore up ... In the bay I found just bring the two lines up the fire wall and over the fan motor and running them across the back is nice looking and ez ,,,

2. TEMP SENDER
the temp sender .. the one supplied in the kit is a GM part and taping the stock port open fit it is not going to work ... instead we used the temp sender from a 2000 GM 5.7 .. its a 12m x 1.50 tp and is just a bit bigger than the stock Mopar temp sender..

TECH NOTE .... there is a upper limit ohm difference from the kit supplied sender " 82ohm " and the smaller sender " 88ohm" but dont worry about that ... FiTech has put out an soft ware update that will let you go in and adjust for the difference between the two ...

other than that i added some new pics of fuel line routing and stuff

https://beta.photobucket.com/u/ramcuda/ ... fc5c6fc15c


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 4:43 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:52 am
Posts: 27
Location: Santa Clara ca ..
Car Model*: 1970 Dart Swinger ( mod top clone ) Slanty w/auto
ok its wired and runs ... the only thing id i cant get it to idle down to the 700rpm.. its stays about 800-840rpm... Tuning im sure
and i cant to get it to snap back to idle .. it takes a bit to come back down ...

I would say it good to start just tuning at this point ..


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 11:59 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
Posts: 1394
Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model*: 58 Plymouth Plaza 2dr, 63 Valiant Signet 200 2dr
If it won't idle down, make sure the blades are actually closing all the way. Since it has an IAC built in, the throttle blades don't need to be open far/at all. If you look at your display, it should indicate what % the IAC is being opened. You'll want to set the throttle blades such that you get between 7 to 10 % opening at idle. If it states zero %, try adjusting the blades.

~THOR~

_________________
1958 Plymouth Plaza 2 door Club Sedan
1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 2 door Hardtop

Find a better way to turn perfectly good fuel into noise; I dare ya.
VP - Cherry City Bombers Car Club
http://www.bomberscc.com


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 5:30 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:52 am
Posts: 27
Location: Santa Clara ca ..
Car Model*: 1970 Dart Swinger ( mod top clone ) Slanty w/auto
thanks ill look at that ... is the fuel pump loud on yours ?
here a vid of mine ... so loud in face you cant hear the car much less you car hear it 10=feet away ... and there comes a part it ramps up and just stops when im driving and the car dies out

here the vid
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1sumfj00g2xwpux/20181106_150158.mp4?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5vf3c67b365l9ip/20181106_151613.mp4?dl=0


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 9:37 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
Posts: 1394
Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model*: 58 Plymouth Plaza 2dr, 63 Valiant Signet 200 2dr
I ran the stock fuel pump into the surge tank with a high pressure pump taking it from there. Since the pump was in the surge tank, you couldn't hear it at all. The only noise I heard was normal induction noise through the IAC. I'll watch the videos here in a little bit.

~THOR~

_________________
1958 Plymouth Plaza 2 door Club Sedan
1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 2 door Hardtop

Find a better way to turn perfectly good fuel into noise; I dare ya.
VP - Cherry City Bombers Car Club
http://www.bomberscc.com


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 6:20 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:52 am
Posts: 27
Location: Santa Clara ca ..
Car Model*: 1970 Dart Swinger ( mod top clone ) Slanty w/auto
Well new pump on its way from them ... out side of that im thinking about welding a bung into the bottom of the tank and finding a way of running the fuel line that does not get cough up in the rear end or shocks ... I can only get the idle down to 800rpm or so .. but at that my IACs are 0 to about 3or4 ..

But more tuning after the new pump gets in ..


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 1:38 pm 
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Board Sponsor
User avatar

Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
Posts: 1394
Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model*: 58 Plymouth Plaza 2dr, 63 Valiant Signet 200 2dr
I would try closing your throttle blades, until you get around 7 to 10 IAC. Does your TPS read 0% at idle? I'm trying to remember if FiTech has a TPS autoset feature as Holley HP EFI does.

~THOR~

_________________
1958 Plymouth Plaza 2 door Club Sedan
1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 2 door Hardtop

Find a better way to turn perfectly good fuel into noise; I dare ya.
VP - Cherry City Bombers Car Club
http://www.bomberscc.com


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2018 9:13 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2017 2:01 pm
Posts: 7
Car Model*:
I put a fitech on my dart last year. Mine is a 318 though.

I had problems getting everything to tune but once I figured it out everything was good .

I have gone though 2 of the frame mounted fuel pumps. Both eventually started to leak at the fitting. The second one did it only at start up then stopped after a few drops but then the pump went out on me in less than 1,00 miles. If this third pump goes I am going to switch out to the in tank pump style.

I had the same issue with idling down. After getting frustrated with it I finally called Fi-tech. They had me rerun the software on the hand held controller, reset the parameters and then it would respond to idle changes.

Other tips that you have to find out on your own, not sure why they just don't warn you about it in the instructions.

1. Don't leave the hand held controller plugged in, it will kill your battery
2. You need to have a good reluctor in your distributor. Mine was chewed up a bit from use. Once I changed to a new distributor my idle was so smooth.
3. You have to make sure the blue pick up wire is away from any electrical interference, spark plug wires etc.
4. Finally while trying to figure out why the idle was messed up( see distributor issue above) Fitech said to use the MSD distributor. I tried it and it did not work. The system was not communicating properly with the distributor. Could be some sort of setting that had to be adjusted but fitech did not have a solution.

Definitely more power than the Edel 6oo


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