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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 2:53 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 8:18 am
Posts: 39
Location: Tennessee
Car Model*: 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger
Greetings all,

I have had quite a few customers ask me about how much the conversions cost for fuel injection is and I was hoping we could make a consolidated post here to help newcomers. First and foremost if you are new and your interested please read the articles in our article section one of which specifically talks about EFI conversions. http://www.slantsix.org/articles/dibiase_efi/efi-conversion.htm

After we all share I will compile the averages in an edit to this first post. We will try to show East and West costs.
If you get a chance please format clearly. Below is an example of the topics.


Fuel Rail Cost $75
Fuel Bungs Cost $11 ea
Sniper EFI Kit cost $?
Fitech EFI Kit cost $?
Custom Manifold cost $850
Throttle Body cost $?
Intake Manifold Modification cost $?
(anything else you guys can think of as well fuel pump, fuel line, tank modification, injector cost, etc)


Thanks for your time
Bryce Gill
Gill Welding & Fabrication
Gill Racing


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 7:03 pm 
Offline
Turbo EFI

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 2437
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model*:
One way to do a cost estimate would be to price everything new, from proven national on line suppliers.
with the thought being known that if some one was to pull a throttle body or sensors or injectors from a local pull a part
they could potentially save some money,,,,but they also have used - no warranty parts,,,


Fuel Tank
from Tanks INC

250.00 for a late 60- early 70 A body

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ ... prd480.htm


fuel pump

basic fuel pump
210.00


http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ ... prd227.htm

Throttle Body
GM 3.8L - 5L from Rock Auto


125.00 throttle body


https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 33&jsn=467

appears to include a throttle position sensor and an intake air control

Sensors
From Rock Auto
MAP

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 33&jsn=470

the MAP will be the most expense sensor, this one is 46.00


TPS
CT
IAC
IA

Fuel Lines
Those may need to be custom,
so price 40 feet of stainless tube,
6 feet of flex hose and a number of fittings
from Summitt

Injectors
new injectors from some Ebay distributor

here is a low price on a set of 460 Ford Blue Tops

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-pcs-New-Fuel ... :rk:1:pf:0

46.00 for the 8 injectors,,,

the install will need an ECM and as mentioned below, most likly an electrical system upgrade.


Last edited by DadTruck on Fri Jan 11, 2019 4:40 pm, edited 7 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:28 pm 
Offline
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 8:18 am
Posts: 39
Location: Tennessee
Car Model*: 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger
DadTruck wrote:
One way to do a cost estimate would be to price everything new, from proven national on line suppliers.
with the thought being known that if some one was to pull a throttle body or sensors or injectors from a local pull a part
they could potentially save some money,,,,but they also have used - no warranty parts,,,


Fuel Tank
from Tanks INC

Throttle Body
GM 3.8L - 5L from Rock Auto

Sensors
From Rock Auto
MAP
TPS
CT
IAC
IA

Fuel Lines
Those may need to be custom,
so price 40 feet of stainless tube,
6 feet of flex hose and a number of fittings
from Summitt

Injectors
new injectors from some Ebay distributor

as I get some time I will go back and fill in prices / part links


Thanks for the feedback dadtruck. I agree that running parts pricing through a national supplier is one of the easiest ways. I'm hoping to help people that might not want to reach out to a business or just don't have an idea what they might need. This way it takes a little trouble out of mystery for new comers, and it will help them get a fair price when shopping for parts or fabrication work.

I would like to include a estimated used parts price range as well.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 9:45 pm 
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Board Sponsor
User avatar

Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 1859
Location: Everett, WA
Car Model*:
You need to include an electrical system upgrade. The stock 35amp alternator is marginal in these upgrades. The surrounding 50 year wiring is not designed for the increased electrical load that an EFI system can impose. I am finding that this part of an EFI upgrade can be as expensive as one of the prepackaged TBI systems.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 5:10 am 
Offline
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 8:18 am
Posts: 39
Location: Tennessee
Car Model*: 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger
kesteb wrote:
You need to include an electrical system upgrade. The stock 35amp alternator is marginal in these upgrades. The surrounding 50 year wiring is not designed for the increased electrical load that an EFI system can impose. I am finding that this part of an EFI upgrade can be as expensive as one of the prepackaged TBI systems.


Kesteb,

I agree this is often overlooked. If anything at least grab one of the later model alternators. What specific expenses have you seen in your build?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:32 pm 
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Board Sponsor
User avatar

Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 1859
Location: Everett, WA
Car Model*:
I feel that a 90amp alternator is the minimum to use. Now stop and think about that. Your car was designed around a 35amp alternator. The wiring is 50 years old, the connectors are corroded. What is going to fail first? What is the biggest problem with a EFI retrofit?

A retofit can be broken down into subsections.

The fuel system. This can be done on the cheap to a no expense spared setup. But basically you need a fuel pump that can handle 43.5 psi at a sufficient volme to feed the injectors. You will need a return line to the fuel tank. NAPA sells 3/8 steel "brake line" for about 1$ per foot. A fuel pump starts at $80 and goes up. That 50 year old gas tank is not set up for EFI. So you need to replace it, modify it or do something else. Gas tanks start at $120 on up. And then there are misc small parts; fitting, hoses, filters, etc. These are not cheap, especially if you go AN. How are you going to power the fuel pump? If the pump is back by the tank, are you going to run a couple of wires and hope for the best, or do a battery relocation. A battery relocation kit start at around $100 and goes up. If you are going to race, you will need a NHRA compatible shutoff switch. Those start at $50 and goes up. A fuel regulator starts at $65 and goes up.

The EFI system. The cheapest controller you can get is a Microsquirt at around $300. This will drive a MPEFI system in batch mode. A 36-1 trigger wheel costs around $40. A EDIS 6 ignition system can be had for under $100 on EBAY. A set of 24lbs injectors can be had at various price points on EBAY. If you buy used, it costs $20 a piece to have them cleaned and rebuilt. A Ford 5.0 throttle body can be had for $40 on EBAY. The tps and iac is compatible with the Microsquirt. The GM iat and clt cost about $15 a piece. A wide band O2 sensor starts at $150 and goes up. Now you get to wire it all up. The various fuses, fuse holders, relays, connectors, wire and other assorted parts will cost over $100, easily. And we haven't even discussed an intake manifold. I have seen $600 quotes to weld bungs into a manifold, you supply the manifold.

The Electrical system. Once you upgrade to that 90amp alternator, you need to replace the original wiring. This can run from a $75 hot rod kit all the way up to $900 oem replacement, which is not designed for that 90 amp alternator.

All of this is expensive, none of it costs out your time, nor the cost of somebody else doing it. And I am sure you can do it cheaper. But this is what I am finding out with my conversion. By the way,, I am 90% thru the first two sections and comtemplating the last one.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 12:42 pm 
Offline
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 8:18 am
Posts: 39
Location: Tennessee
Car Model*: 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger
kesteb wrote:
I feel that a 90amp alternator is the minimum to use. Now stop and think about that. Your car was designed around a 35amp alternator. The wiring is 50 years old, the connectors are corroded. What is going to fail first? What is the biggest problem with a EFI retrofit?

A retofit can be broken down into subsections.

The fuel system. This can be done on the cheap to a no expense spared setup. But basically you need a fuel pump that can handle 43.5 psi at a sufficient volme to feed the injectors. You will need a return line to the fuel tank. NAPA sells 3/8 steel "brake line" for about 1$ per foot. A fuel pump starts at $80 and goes up. That 50 year old gas tank is not set up for EFI. So you need to replace it, modify it or do something else. Gas tanks start at $120 on up. And then there are misc small parts; fitting, hoses, filters, etc. These are not cheap, especially if you go AN. How are you going to power the fuel pump? If the pump is back by the tank, are you going to run a couple of wires and hope for the best, or do a battery relocation. A battery relocation kit start at around $100 and goes up. If you are going to race, you will need a NHRA compatible shutoff switch. Those start at $50 and goes up. A fuel regulator starts at $65 and goes up.

The EFI system. The cheapest controller you can get is a Microsquirt at around $300. This will drive a MPEFI system in batch mode. A 36-1 trigger wheel costs around $40. A EDIS 6 ignition system can be had for under $100 on EBAY. A set of 24lbs injectors can be had at various price points on EBAY. If you buy used, it costs $20 a piece to have them cleaned and rebuilt. A Ford 5.0 throttle body can be had for $40 on EBAY. The tps and iac is compatible with the Microsquirt. The GM iat and clt cost about $15 a piece. A wide band O2 sensor starts at $150 and goes up. Now you get to wire it all up. The various fuses, fuse holders, relays, connectors, wire and other assorted parts will cost over $100, easily. And we haven't even discussed an intake manifold. I have seen $600 quotes to weld bungs into a manifold, you supply the manifold.

The Electrical system. Once you upgrade to that 90amp alternator, you need to replace the original wiring. This can run from a $75 hot rod kit all the way up to $900 oem replacement, which is not designed for that 90 amp alternator.

All of this is expensive, none of it costs out your time, nor the cost of somebody else doing it. And I am sure you can do it cheaper. But this is what I am finding out with my conversion. By the way,, I am 90% thru the first two sections and comtemplating the last one.


Thanks for typing all that out Kesteb that is some great information.
I'll try to do some ranges as well. Used vs new would help as well.
I would love to know what more guys builds are costing them.


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