Saw this on AR Engineering's website:

http://arengineering.com/products/therm ... nsor-port/

--Walt Jackson

I am installing a Holley Sniper and wish I saw this earlier. I ended up teeing off of the upper heater hose from the head.I Had to cut down the boss on the tee so it could thread in and clear the head.

Andy F at ar comes up with some nice stuff.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I don't believe that will fit the slant. pretty sure everything else uses a larger bolt pattern. I tried a couple different ones before I gave up trying to find one

Probably not.

If it fits a big block then it might be a bit big.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Some later small blocks used the same pattern as the slant - I'm using one of those for a straight water neck for my own installation.

I ended up drilling the cylinder head for a second temperature sensor myself. Tip - ask the parts store for a sensor for a 2000 Saturn SL2 with the 1.9 DOHC; it's the standard GM calibration curve but only 1/8" NPT thread.

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Matt Cramer
1966 Dodge Dart turbo / EFI project

I see this and wonder if you could tap into this to run in/out hoses to heat the intake plenum? I suspect you would need at least one check valve, sort of like how a cast-iron radiator works for a house.

This would be a very clean installation with nice short hose lengths if possible.

Thoughts?

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'68 Barracuda - taking advice on increasing street torque, power, & road handling. Click To See It

The thermostat cover spacer with a threaded tap is a nice solution but sad to say that the V-8 Mopar T. cover has a different bolt spacing then the SL6.

When I need hot water for manifold heating, I use the coolant by-pass outlet tapped hole, in the head, under the thermostat area, Get access by removing the straight nipple and installing a 90 degree elbow and nipple.
Route the return coolant back to the water pump's by-pass nipple. This goes into the suction area of the water pump so no check valve is needed.
DD

You could run a hose from this fitting to supply a waterbox under the intake plenum. Being considerably smaller than a heater hose fitting, It might or might not have adequate waterflow capacity to keep up with the intake manifold's chill.

You could not successfully run a return hose to this fitting, no matter how many check valves or other widgets you might add. In order for there to be flow through the waterbox (or radiator, or engine block, or heater core, or wherever else), one hose has to be upstream of the water pump, and the other hose has to be downstream of the pump.

The short distance between thermostat housing and intake manifold is attractive, but practically speaking I think you're better off plumbing an intake heater in via the heater hose supply (on the cylinder head) and return (on the water pump neck).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I agree with Doug and Dan. I think it is physically possible, as Doug states, but I share Dan's concerns that tapping into those points requires a small diameter pipe and hose and I don't knoew if that small volume of coolant flow would have sufficient cooling capacity sufficient for safe use on a street operated vehicle. I don't know if Doug ran such a system on the street or only on drag cars. If he did run it on the street I would love to hear his reports.

This is an interesting idea and worth of some pursuit through controlled testing in different driving conditions with thorough and accurate datalogging.

Heater hose would be an easier, cheaper, and more tried-and-true method of creating intake manifold heat.

Doc, unless I'm mistaken, I see what you did there (picking the pic of that particular cylinder head—that's the one from Argentina, isn't it?)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I ended up putting a tee between the heater hose nipple and the port in the head. I did have to cut down the tee boss a bit so it would rotate in without hitting the front of the head.