Nice work, Greg. You are using MSII, so which MegaTune version are you using? I need to upgrade my Darts to MSII...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

I think it's 2.25+ ?? I will have to check - There is a nice suite that You can get from DIYautotune.com that downloads everything in a bundle will all the latest updates and has support for all the versions of MS I and II - My MS II is version 2.88 I believe so I can just open that out of the Bundle and go to work. Not a lot of screwing around with code in the configurator. MS II is nice due to the Timing maps you can set up.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

We've made some progress on it but right now we're juggling a couple projects and don't have a firm release date for them. We'll have the wheel out first and I am not sure if we'll be able to follow it up with a purpose built sensor bracket or just a universal one.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

The Sensor for triggering the Ign / MS II is a pertronix.. Which is a hall type sensor right??

Well I was cranking the car over and I get no signal in megatune that the engine is turning over. The mega manual shows hall sensors with 3 wires and the pertronix unit has two.... a red and a black.


So which one goes to trigger the MSII and Which one gets the +12V?

Progress Pics of the Throttle cable:

A bit of Fabbin on the 4.0 Throttle Cable / Mounting.





4.0 Cable Fits nice without too many mods Here.

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

The pertronix will look like a set of points to anything hooked up to it..............not a hall effect sensor

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Precisely. When wiring a Pertronix to a MS, wire the red one to +12V, the black wire to the MS's pin 24 (tach terminal on the relay board, in your case), and run a 1K resistor from the tach terminal to 12 volts if yours doesn't have the code MOD_x357-12VIN on the reciept (an internal version of the resistor pull-up). Not at work today so I can't check what you have.

The Pertronix is sort of like a 3 wire Hall effect sensor - biggest difference is it has a sort of amplifier so it can drive a coil directly. The 3rd (ground) wire is actually the base of the Ignitor instead of a wire.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer

'66 Dart - turbocharged 225

My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Thanks Guys! I do Have MOD_x357- In the Receipt for DIYA/t....

I will check my wiring. I believe I tried to pull the +12 off the + side of the coil - maybe I'll pull it from elsewhere.. I am not using the fidle Slot on the relay board, So if that Gives me a steady +12 v Maybe i'll use that.


I got my Manifold Air temp Sensor today from the parts store - Time to verify that it's Good.

Thanks, Happy 4th! Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Well I got that one figured out..

there was no voltage (+12V) to the coil or the pertronix. I guess the relay board does not fire the fuel pump until It has the engine running?? makes sens to me.. anyway I just fed the + of the coil 12V from another source - Now I have 145 Rpm In cranking Mode in Megatune..


I just have to calibrate my IAT sensor -- It's a Jeep 4.0 One and I have to get some resistance valuse to plug into Mega Tune!

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

The fuel pump comes on for x seconds (I think 2-3?) when you initially turn it on. If it doesn't sense the engine is running after that it will turn it off. It will only come back on once it senses rpm input.

Pierre, That Makes Sense for safety!

Does anyone have a Bias Resistor Value for a 95 Jeep 4.0 Intake air sensor?

I have found the resistance Values for calibrating the Temp/resistance range, but I need to find the Bias Value to get the scale correct in megatune.

Thanks! Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

The bias resistor is in the Megasquirt. It's 2490 ohms.

Yes, the fuel pump relay terminal is only energized when the engine is already running and for about 2 seconds on startup. You're not the first to have used it to power a Hall effect sensor and found that it would only start if you started cranking immediately.

Interesting intake setup you've got there, Greg. It looks like we had the same general idea (throttle body on a pipe) but you've gone with much longer piping.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer

'66 Dart - turbocharged 225

My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Thanks matt, Yep If the pipe is too long, I'll just cut it shorter and re-weld.

I have tried the 2490 Ohms in Megatune and when I do the readings are waaay off.
Like It shows 32*F when the Air is 72*F ?? It looks like for now I have gotten it to work if I punch in 750 For the Resistance Ohms in the Calibration dialog..

Is this bad?? Will it hurt The MS-II??

Thanks,


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

It won't damage the MS-II but it could make your fuel calculations go off. Could you post a screen shot of your calibration settings?

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer

'66 Dart - turbocharged 225

My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Here is a shot of the Calibration at 750 for the bias:





and then I did it again at 650:




The basis I am using here is the coolant sensor - This car is in the basement at room temp. So I am tying to match the iat Temp to the Coolant as the car has not run in over a week... you can see in the 650 shot that the air temp was 67* that was after setting the 750 Pramaters.. It was very close to match the coolant after it calculated the 650 Setting.

Thoughts Megatuners??


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I don't think the air temp will ever exactly match the coolant temp even if the car has sat for long periods. The water is encased in a whole lot of iron....

Why did you choose the jeep sensor? It looks like you just put in a bung in the intake tube so you could of picked any sensor.

In my case I was using the stock mopar cooling sensor because I only had a 1/8" hole in my head and couldn't find an 1/8" GM sensor to match the default MS settings - I tried calibrating it to the MS but the results were craptacular. It worked good enough but still was off - in the end I gave up, and when I rebuilt the engine I redrilled the hole to 3/8", used default values in MS, used default GM sensor, voila.