not adding fuel injection to the 83 D-150, but I am planning on using a fuel tank and in tank pump module from a 92 D-150,, as that gets me a slightly larger gas tank, and fuel level gauge resistance compatability with the 92 gauge cluster that I am also using.. and an in tank electric pump

I understand that I will need a bypass regulator as I am staying with a carb..
looks like this one will do,
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13204

or will a less expensive one like this holly work?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-12-803BP/
or is this Holly bypass regulator intended for a lower pressure pump?

also
are all rubber fuel line hoses the same or is there more durable stuff for in tank fuel pumps and fuel injection set ups ?
asking as I intend to add to the system the 1992 D-150 OE style frame mount fuel filter,, it plugs into the fuel line using rubber hose.Would like to get the correct material....

here are photos of the 1992 in tank module, fuel filter and the OE 1983 fuel delivery line.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N ... 929140649/
For the delivery line I intend to make a new one, to eliminate the many up and down bends...don't understand why they put all those bends in??

thanks
DT

This what you contemplate is not a wise idea. The '92 pump produces ten times the high end of the slant-6 pressure spec. There isn't a regulator that will safely cut the pressure down to what you need, and there are a lot of other safety considerations when adding an electric pump to a carbureted vehicle.

Find another way to get fuel out of the later tank and keep using your mechanical pump.

Also, use only fuel injection hose (marked SAE J30R9) even though you have a carburetor. It is safer.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The description of the aeromotive regulator says it will do just that, convert from efi to carb using the efi pump. This looks like it will do the same job and is slightly cheaper.

Dan, are there any specific safety concerns you have in mind? I don't see any as long as the appropriate plumbing is used, particularly on the high pressure parts.

Don't quote me on it but I think the holley regulator is meant more for the holley electric pumps (which were specifically designed for carbs) - Call 'em up and ask. Remember you'll have to run a return line too and some wiring, relay, etc.

Why not just put EFI on it? Running the tank and pump and return line is the hardest part of the EFI swap, IMHO...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Lou
and that is one reason to go with the 91 and up fuel tank, it gets me a step closer to EFI, may do that further down the road...

Pierre,, that is what I was wondering, I bet the Holly is intended for low pressure pumps..

Dan, thanks for the rubber fuel line info..for the other questions...
I want to use a 91 and up gauge cluster as that gets me:
100 MPH speedo, in place of an 85 MPH
The speedo is vss driven, gets me closer to cruse control..
voltmeter in place of an ammeter
a trip odometer
generally better graphics, low fuel level indicator..

the fuel gauge resistance is is something like 8 to 76 ohms on the 83, for the 91 and up it is 4 to 121,, so without the proper in tank sending unit the 92 gas gauge will never read totally full or empty if I use the 83 intank sending unit.

the rear tank strap is a bolt in, requires a minor mod on the front strap..
to control power to the electric pump. I plan to signal a relay using the choke heater output off the oil pressure sender,, will put a momentary button to get gas to the carb, if it has sat for a while..

Safety concerns: See here.

Pressure regulators are wisely used to adjust the pressure slightly, not to cut it by 90%.




Um…so? You're not pushing that brick through the wind at 85 mph, let alone 100.



Easy to add VSS without changing speedometer.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

A Holley regulator is built for a max of 14 psi. The in tank pump puts out a minimum of 35 psi, doesn't it?

I have to agree with Dan on this one John, trying to reduce pressure that much is not a real good idea. Can you take the pump out of the tank and make a pickup in it's place that you can use a stock pump with?

If you do use the in tank pump do yourself a big favor and bend up a steel return line. That much rubber hose is a recipe for disaster.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

A bypass regulator is usually a pop-off valve.

The pressure in the fuel line before and after the regulator will be whatever the pressure regulator is set at.

If the manufacturer says it can handle an EFI pump, I don't see any problem.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

He COULD use the old feed line as a return, if he was going to re-route the feed line to "straighten out" the bends. But I agree he should think of using maybe the stock pump, or adapt one of the so called 'lift pumps' found on some vehicles, that has the "high pressure" pump frame mounted. (ie: late 80's full sized ford bronco comes to mind)

Did do a quicky search, look-see @ a few regulators, and most are not rated for the 50+ psi style pumps used for FI, most are for regulating the "normal" electric pumps that pump up to about 15 psi....(Holley Blue/Red, Mallory etc)

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MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

sounds like the Holley regulator is intended to control carb compatable electric pumps.That is not what is needed.

it is stated in the description of the Aeromotive 13204 that it is designed to allow fuel injection electric pumps to be compatable with carburetors.
says it can control pressure down to 3 to 15 lbs,,, That sounds like the correct part. I'll call their tech line tomorrow to confirm.

I intend to run steel out and return lines,, the opportunity to reuse the existing delivery line as a return line did cross my mind,, however it has many meandering bends,,so I'll probably just make new..

the rubber hose will be just for the fuel filter connections and the module to the main out and in lines.

What makes this worth doing, is the easy of going to FI at a later point in time,, I think I can handle the added complexity of the lines and regulator and not further delay or add significant expense to the project. If I add FI at this time, I'll be delaying completion another couple of months and spending more real $'s

thanks

Is the 91 up pump for TBI? If so it will be 10-13lbs which is easily handled by a modest regulator.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Good point Sandy. I think the TBI was used until the newer Ram series came out in '93?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Last year for TBI: 1991
First year for (high pressure) multiport injection + Magnum engines: 1992

The donor truck is a 1992.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan, good point on the pump flooding the carb after engine stops. An oil pressure and/or rpm referenced switch would be necessary. And the charging system issue... guess I've just taken too many things for granted after the mods I've made.

An inertia switch may mitigate some crash related issues. The aeromotive regulators will work whether it's a tbi or mpfi pump since either will easily produce many times more pressure then a carb requires. I wouldn't fuss with the holley regulator if efi is in your future. You may find cheaper then aeromotive. Try summit house brand?

Not exactly the same situation, But I have a carb and a nitrous fogger system. I have a stock gas tank (66 Cuda) with a modified stock pickup. It has a return tube added. The outlet of the tank goes to a canister filter, then feeds two Walbro electric inline pumps in parrallel (approx 50 psi). The pumps feed a single line to the engine compartment and a Mr Gasket return flow regulator set for 15psi. That regulator feeds two Holley regulators, one set for 4 lbs to the carb, and the other set for 6.5 lbs for the nitrous.
Has been working fine for several years.

One caveat, Check the rubber fuel line on a regular basis. I smoked a piston last year, due to the short rubber line at the tank, deteriorating, and sucking air. Made the nitrous go lean. That line was the "good" R9 FI hose and was only about 3 years old. The outer layer of rubber, over the braid, was almost completely gone.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170