Thinking about running fuel injection on my 65 slant 6 would like to put a fuel pump in the stock tank. Has anyone tried? Would love to modify the sending unit with an in-tank pump with this new mat technology. Any input or direction would be awesome cuz I am in the process of installing a freshly painted fuel tank.

Something like this may work..

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-tcr11a-t-kit/


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

That's a neat simple solution, interesting to get some feedback for users.

Summit also has the DIY FI Fuel tech tight fit 255 EFI fuel pump that is installed in top of tank thru a drilled 2.125" hole, but I believe limited to 12" of depth? for $249?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpf-40015

I'm currently installing a bladder foam filled fuel cell tank, I have the Holley fuel matt, and am exploring how to best locate/secure the immersed electric return style fuel pump. Probably should have ordered with this option already installed.

I have a Tanks Inc fuel tank in the 68 Barracuda,
And it is a very pretty part, nicely made, powder coated.
I bought directly from Tanks Inc, used thier Walbro pump assembly
and fuel level sender.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

I am been thinking about adding an in tank pump for years. I figure that to be a sometime this year project. I will be using an used OEM fuel pump from a honda odyssey van. If you get a pump module from a 2005-11 van it has a small lay down bucket that is fairly small and self contained. About $50 used from a junkyard and I will personally attest to a perfect service record for them. Never seen or heard of a failed honda fuel pump that wasn't directly related to varnish or water damage. The vans have 3.5L engine that redline around 6400 rpm so it should feed a slant just fine.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Herko-Fuel-Pum ... Sw5yBanbM~

Example ^ of this pump. Without question a used OEM honda pump is superior to ANY aftermarket pump you will ever find. The pump separates into 2 section with the vertical section just containing the filter, the pump is in the lower section. I figure I will get a new tank, cut a square hole in the top of the right front corner of the tank. I also planned to add some tank floor ramps and then lead soldering them to the bottom of the tank to force the fuel towards the pump.

I have read that standard "whiffle" balls (the kids baseball game) can be used as in tank baffles to prevent fuel surging, but would likely cause issues with the fuel pickup unless some preventive measure is implemented. There are commercial available whiffle balls devices designed for this purpose on commercial tankers to prevent slosh.

Thanks everyone for your input. Not sure which direction I'm going yet, but was hoping to get something to go thru the side of the tank were the sending go thru since i have the tank painted. Maybe someone wants a new fuel tank that has been epoxy primed & painted hot rod black. Then i could buy one from Tanks that is made for fuel injection?

You could go that route with a small electric pump hanging off the end of the stock pickup. But that doesn't allow for a proper fuel bath for the pickup. You don't want an in tank electric pump to starve. That is why all the ready made kits include a little pan/bucket for the fuel to collect in.

I will likely start cutting up my rusty old original 65 valiant tank next week to see what I can fabricate for an in tank pump. I will share pics when I do it.

Tanks + Walbro = Good schtuff!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Okay so I went with the tanks with the fuel pump and sending unit all together nice setup. So now I have a brand new stock tank painted hot rod black with sending unit if anyone is interested.

On another project, I stuffed a Walbro 255 lph pump on the end of a stock sending unit. Worked pretty well until the fuel tank dropped to about 1/4 tank, then I'd get some serious issues with fuel starvation around corners.

The current version of my Dart build has a cake pan welded to the tank as a sump. There's four holes cut in the tank with a hole saw, creating a baffle effect between the sump and the main tank. We'll see how that works.

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Matt Cramer
1966 Dodge Dart turbo / EFI project

I have a 1966 VC Chrysler Valiant (Australian)
I am looking at one of the Tanks Inc set ups for my EFI project.
They have this one
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page ... prd479.htm
and this one listed
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page ... prd480.htm

Thing is they both look the same to me,i have had an email from Tanks Inc asking for photos and measurements which i sent but nothing since.
My tank looks exactly like the 63-66 Tanks Inc listing.
Does anyone know if they are using generic photos for the listings or is the later 67 model different ?
The other thing is the ohm rating for the sender unit.
Our Valiants use VDO gauges and i can't find the ohm rating for my sender unit.
Would anyone know the rating of my 1966 sender unit ?
Tanks Inc has different ohm ratings .

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

I have a tanksinc setup in my 68 Dart and it all works very well. Do not know about the 63-66 cars or Aussie variations. I expect they are the same...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Lou
There are 3 listings which all look the same
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page ... prd479.htm

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page ... prd480.htm

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page ... prd481.htm

Which model did you use ?
Cheers,
Greg

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

I will add that the 1966 Chrysler Valiant(Australian) body shape looks similar to the 1966 Plymouth Valiant

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

1967 was a significant change for US models. I'm not sure exactly what dimensions changed or if you can bodge a later tank into an earlier body.

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Matt Cramer
1966 Dodge Dart turbo / EFI project