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 Post subject: temperature sender unit
PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 2:07 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2004 9:36 pm
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Where can I source a temperature sender unit for my 61 Valiant? I believe they are different to those used in later slants.

Also, when disconnecting the battery to work on the car, why do you disconnect the negative lead (and not the positive lead)?

Thanks


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 Post subject: It's...
PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 6:20 am 
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Quote:
Also, when disconnecting the battery to work on the car, why do you disconnect the negative lead (and not the positive lead)?


The negative lead grounds the block and car body...if you are leaning over the fender and become grounded to the body/the path of least resistance (think summer in a sweaty T-shirt...) and pull the positive cable you can get shocked...if you pull the negative first it breaks this possible path and then you can pull the positive cable next....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 9:24 am 
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A car battery cannot and will not shock you, even if you step out of a bathtub full of saltwater and immediately touch the positive and negative posts (or lean over it with a sweaty shirt. You disconnect the negative cable first (always) because that way the one and only potential for a disaster is if you happen to connect the positive and negative battery terminals to each other, which is not likely to happen. If you were to disconnect the positive cable first, anything metal the other end of the wrench touches while it's on the positive cable will result in heat, sparks and fire. If the goal is just to kill the power to the car so you can work on the electrics, there's no reason to remove both cables (as if you were removing the battery from the car) so you stop after removing the negative cable.

Temperature sender is same '60-'63, then changes for '64. Still a current item in the Standard and NAPA Echlin lines.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 3:27 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

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I have collected a number of temperature sender units over the years, how can I tell the difference between the early and later ones?

Thanks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 5:01 pm 
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A car battery cannot and will not shock you, even if you step out of a bathtub full of saltwater and immediately touch the positive and negative posts (or lean over it with a sweaty shirt.

I respectfully disagree sir.I have been shocked more than once by laying a sweaty arm across a battery.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 6:49 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

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In industry, 30 volts is generally considered to be a conservative threshold value for dangerous voltage. The cautious person should regard any voltage above 30 volts as threatening, not relying on normal body resistance for protection against shock. That word normal is a gray area. Sweat could lower body resistance?? A long time ago on a project is was necessary to run power along a fence. Cow barn yard cows in direct contact with wet earth. Used step down transformer to lower volts to 18 well under 30 volt safety margin. Back up to normal voltage after barn yard. Now this low voltage does not mean that you are not going to feel some thing if contact is made. A tingle as opposed to a life threating schock. 12 volts pretty low . I am with Dan on this one.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 7:08 pm 
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http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_3/4.html


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 7:21 pm 
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The '60-'63 sender with the flat slide-on terminal has the following specs:

Thread Size: 1/4"-18 NPT
12.5Ω @ 220°F

The '64-up sender with the round push-on terminal has the following specs:

Thread Size: 1/8"-27 NPT
17.1Ω @ 220°F

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Last edited by SlantSixDan on Thu Nov 03, 2016 6:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 3:05 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2004 9:36 pm
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What do you mean by 12.5 ohm at 220 centigrade?

If I measure the resitance of the sender unit should it read 12.5 ohms (for the early Valiants)?

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 4:58 pm 
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Supercharged

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Car Model*: 64 Plymouth Valiant
yes


220 F not 220 C

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 4:49 pm 
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Supercharged
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So is there a different part # for the gauge on the 63 dart vs the 64 dart?

If the sender is a different resistance will the gauge somehow read different if a 60-63 gauge is used with a 64 and newer sender?


Greg

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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 12:40 pm 
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model*: 58 Plymouth Plaza 2dr, 63 Valiant Signet 200 2dr
Greg Ondayko wrote:
So is there a different part # for the gauge on the 63 dart vs the 64 dart?

If the sender is a different resistance will the gauge somehow read different if a 60-63 gauge is used with a 64 and newer sender?


Greg



Correct. I forget which direction it will throw the gauge off, but it certainly won't read correctly; not that I ever trusted a gauge without numbers on it anyways.

~THOR~

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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 3:03 pm 
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Well Just cause a Gauge has numbers on it does not mean it right either!

But I know whatcha are sayin!


:-)

Greg

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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 3:31 pm 
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model*: 58 Plymouth Plaza 2dr, 63 Valiant Signet 200 2dr
Greg Ondayko wrote:
Well Just cause a Gauge has numbers on it does not mean it right either!

But I know whatcha are sayin!


:-)

Greg



Oh, been there done that too :shock: :lol:

~THOR~

_________________
1958 Plymouth Plaza 2 door Club Sedan
1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200 HT - "CL4P-TP"
Licensed Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing


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